My 5-Day Albania Itinerary

👉 Jump to: Albania Itinerary | Where to Stay | Things to know

I spent five days exploring the Albanian coast this summer with my boyfriend and two best friends. This adventure was one of my top travel experiences to date, from the capital city of Tirana to picturesque seaside towns.

Here’s everything I did in Albania, along with the best places to stay and some essential tips to know before you go.

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Top Picks for Where to Stay in Albania

For a visit to Albania, these are my top picks for where to stay:

Best Overall – Artis Blue Relax Hotel
Best in Himarë/Dhërmi – Acta 1939
Best in Tirana – Vila Koja Boutique Hotel
Best in Ksamil/Sarandë – Titania Hotel
Best in Vlorë – Sea & Sand Hotel
Best in Shkodër – Hotel Villa Linda
Apartments – Browse rentals in Albania (my top suggested city)

For a more in-depth breakdown of each area, check out my full section on where to stay in Albania below.

My Albania Itinerary

Arrival: Flying into Tirana (TIA)

People walking up the air stairs at Tirana International Airport — *Most gates use air stairs at Tirana International Airport*

We arrived in Tirana around 10 am after three brutal flights across the globe (LAX to EWR to ATH to TIA). We were exhausted as it took 24 hours and over 6,500 miles to get there. But all things are possible with coffee and a little tenacity. First on the agenda: pick up our rental car.

A rented car along the Albanian coast — *Our trusty rental car on the coast*

Most vehicles in Albania are manual. We opted for a bare-bones stick shift car for only $25 per day (including full-coverage insurance) at the airport via Discover Cars. I highly recommend this third-party site for the cheapest options on the market! Note that automatic vehicles are about four times more expensive.

We hit the road for Tirana, which is roughly 40 minutes from the airport.

Day 1: Exploring Tirana

The author's boyfriend, Michael at the Skanderbeg Monument — *Michael by the Skanderbeg Monument in the main square*

Once in the capital city, traffic was crazy. Drivers took stoplights and speed limits as suggestions. We didn’t know who was going where at one intersection, and suddenly found ourselves stopped mid-street with semi-trucks and motorcyclists speeding towards us in every direction.

Michael very calmly said, “Welp, it appears we are in oncoming traffic.” We somehow rolled out of that one unscathed.

It took time to get used to driving in Albania. I never had to worry much because I can’t drive stick, so I’m grateful I had a great driver behind the wheel. Michael is unflaggingly confident on the road, so cautious drivers beware. Albanian streets are not for the faint of heart!

Overlooking view of the Skanderbeg Square from the clock tower — *Skanderbeg Square from the clock tower*

Our first stop in Tirana was Skanderbeg Square, the main town plaza. We climbed the old clock tower for 200 leks each (~$2) to 360-degree views of Tirana and nearby Mount Dajti National Park. It was a great way to get our bearings in a quiet, secluded spot.

The author Betty Hurd, covering her hair with a scarf inside the mosque — *Ladies – don’t forget a head cover if you plan to enter any mosque*

We visited the Namazgah Mosque next, the largest mosque in the Balkans. Islam is the most popular religion in Albania, so you’ll find gorgeous mosques all over the country. This one was especially stunning with colorful tiled ceilings and prayer services echoing in the streets.

For dinner, we walked through the fortress of Justinian, also known as Tirana Castle. This area was quite touristy, but the crowds hardly detracted from the charm of the ancient architecture. We dined on Turkish pizza and sipped Albanian beer all night. It was just lovely!

Overlooking view of the city from the Pyramid of Tirana at night — *Views from the top of the pyramid*

Our final stop was the Pyramid of Tirana, a popular attraction originally intended to be a mausoleum for the country’s ex-communist leader, Enver Hoxha. We reached our step count for the day and took in the city lights at the top before heading to our hotel for well-deserved sleep.

Day 2: A Beautiful Drive to Himarë

Two people admiring the overlooking view of the Ionian Sea — *Overlooking the Ionian Sea in Old Town Himarë*

Our home base for the next four days would be Himarë, a seaside town surrounded by historic sites. We picked up our friends Courtney and Jesse from the airport and hit the road for the coast.

The drive from Tirana to Himarë took about four hours. The scenery along the way included roadside bunkers from the communist era, adorable towns, and breathtaking views of the Ionian Sea. It was anything but boring.

We stopped at Old Town Himarë before driving to the downtown area. This was my favorite experience of the entire trip. We each paid 200 leks (~$2) to wander the cobbled streets of a castle and town over 3,500 years old.

View of the painted walls inside the Church of St. Sergius and Bacchus — *Painted walls inside the Church of St. Sergius and Bacchus*

We were the only ones there, so we got to enjoy the sea views and crumbling building sites all on our own. We explored the faded painted rooms of the Church of St. Sergius and Bacchus, which dates back to the 10th century. Don’t miss this spot when you visit Himarë.

View of the garden and coffee area at an Airbnb in Himarë — *The garden and coffee area at our Airbnb*

Our Airbnb in Himarë was a quaint stay in a garden compound on top of a hill. A short walk to a set of stairs led us to views of the entirety of Himarë – a busy boardwalk, steeply stacked homes, and white boats bobbing on crystalline water. We took it easy and got to bed early in the comfort of our new home that night.

Day 3: Castles at Butrint National Park and Porto Palermo

The author Betty Hurd and her boyfriend smiling for a photo at the top of Porto Palermo Castle — *The Albanian flag waving atop Porto Palermo Castle*

We drove all the way to the southern border with Greece on day three to Butrint National Archeological Park. The drive there included more glorious coastal views and major tourist towns like Sarandë and Ksamil.

We stopped for snacks and lunch in these towns, but the majority of our day was spent wandering the grounds of an ancient city.

Butrint National Archaeological Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site featuring over 90 square kilometers of Greek, Roman, and Ottoman remains of an ancient city. We spent about four hours exploring the ruins and marshlands. Make sure you have ample time to spend here – the park is huge and the history is fascinating and prolific.

We stopped at Porto Palermo Castle on the way home, a fortress built in the 19th century as a romantic gesture for an Ottoman ruler’s wife. Admission was just 200 leks (~$2) and allowed us into the cool darkness of the well-preserved castle.

This incredible attraction was a favorite in our group. The mountain and sea views from the castle were stunning, and getting there was easy. From Porto Palermo, we drove only 20 minutes home, re-energized for a night out on the town.

A Night Out in Himarë

The author's friends relaxing with the stray dog at the boardwalk in Himarë — *We had a posse of stray dogs and cats that followed us everywhere in town*

The rest of our evening was spent dining and bar hopping in Himarë. We started at a rooftop bar called Coba (one of the fanciest in town) for cocktails overlooking the boardwalk.

Next, we got the best pizza of our lives at Pizzeria Bella Italia, a slightly off-the-beaten-path restaurant with a massive menu. Don’t skip this place when you visit Himarë, the pizza is seriously life-changing. And the staff is sweet as can be!

Closeup look of the Diavola pizzas — *The Diavola pizza… perfection*

After dinner, we stopped at the neighboring convenience store for beers and cigars. We enjoyed them on the dock as twilight settled over the city. I remember how wonderful it felt in that moment to be somewhere completely different from home, yet surrounded by the familiar comfort of lifelong friends. This is truly the greatest paradox in the world.

The author Betty Hurd and her friends enjoying the cigars along the dock at night — *Enjoying cheap cigars on the dock*

Our final stop was a rooftop bar called Locca, conveniently located up the same cliffside staircase to our Airbnb. We sipped raki, a traditional Albanian alcohol, and took in sweeping views of the town lights before stumbling up the remaining stairs to bed. It was a fantastic day through and through.

Day 4: Wandering Old Dhërmi and Turquoise Beaches

Overlooking view of the famous blue-domed church and the houses in Dhërmi — *Overlooking the famous blue-domed church from a staircase in Dhërmi*

We had debated staying in Dhërmi over Himarë before our trip because we’d heard it had more to do. But after venturing 30 minutes north to this seaside town, we felt we accomplished most of what could be done in Dhërmi in a day.

We parked high on the hill and wandered in the direction of the blue-domed church, a popular photo-op in the middle of the old town. Unsure of where we were going, we explored steep stairwells and overgrown alleyways before reaching the church. It was a beautiful sight, despite the heat and hangovers.

The author's friends, Courtney and Jesse reenacting the artwork — *Courtney and Jesse’s reenactment of the artwork*

On our way back up the hill to the car, we saw signs for St. Mary’s Monastery, a 16th-century Byzantine Orthodox church. More laborious steps straight up, and we were suddenly in an old graveyard. The church doors were open, so we went inside and examined the chipping artwork and crumbling foundation of the 400-year-old building. It felt like we’d shot back in time.

I don’t think I’ve ever been sweatier than I was at that church in my entire life. At 90 degrees in 70% humidity, I felt like I might keel over and tumble down the hill. Drink lots of water and wear comfortable clothes if you plan to visit Albania during the summertime.

Overlooking view of the turquoise and sandy Gjipe Beach — *Gjipe Beach from the dirt road*

It was time to wash away all that sweat. Gjipe Beach came highly recommended by locals, so we set off down a one-way road between Dhërmi and Himarë to the water.

The road turned out to be a two-way, one-lane road, so we spent half an hour nearly colliding and occasionally reversing 100 feet back to pullouts to allow drivers to pass in the other direction. Whoever designed that road had a screw loose.

The author Betty Hurd and her friend swimming in Gjipe Beach — *Courtney and me in the perfect water*

We hiked a rocky path nearly a mile down to the beach from the parking lot. I thought the effort we put in meant we’d have the place to ourselves, but we forgot that many people take boat tours from seaside villages to beaches like Gjipe. The sand was rocking with brightly colored umbrellas jam-packed with people. It was a lively environment.

We left our belongings in a beach cave and set out to swim to a more private area. We swam and swam through turquoise water to a rocky alcove where we watched boats zip by beside the rock cliff. It was a perfect beach day swimming in the Ionian Sea.

Day 5: Wine Tasting and Bunkers in Tirana

Overlooking view of the boats in Himarë — *A vision of Himarë from the top of the steps near our Airbnb*

Our final day on the coast was hard to accept. We spent the morning on the boardwalk saying goodbye to our new friends at the shops and taking one last dive off the main dock. I drank in the sight of this perfect little Albanian town and made a promise with my friends to return here someday.

The author's friends with glasses of local wines made from Albanian grapes — *Three local wines made from Albanian grapes*

We added wine tasting to our itinerary for the long drive home. A very bumpy dirt road led us to a vineyard called Kantina & Ferma Dukat near Vlorë. We sipped red and white samples of local Albanian vino and relaxed in a quiet wine cellar.

We said goodbye to the vineyard chickens and a wild tortoise (a sweet reminder of home in Arizona) and continued back to the capital.

The author's friends at the entrance to Bunk’Art 2 — *The entrance to Bunk’Art 2, a fully underground museum*

We navigated to the heart of Tirana to Bunk’Art 2, a history museum set in a massive nuclear bunker. The museum taught us about Albania’s isolation during Hoxha’s communist regime and the efforts to reintroduce their society to the rest of the world since becoming a democracy in 1992. Make sure to read up on the country’s wild history before visiting.

A group of tourists exploring around Hoxha’s underground headquarters in Tirana — *Hoxha’s underground headquarters in Tirana*

If you have claustrophobia like me, you may want to rethink this place. While it’s unendingly interesting, the space is very compact, dank, dark, and crowded. I struggled to get through this museum because I get super claustrophobic in underground environments like caves and basements. Just something to consider!

Where to Stay in Albania (Best Areas & Cities)

Himarë/Dhërmi

Scenic mountain views around the Gjipe Beach — *A view of Gjipe Beach between Himarë and Dhërmi*

Best Himarë/Dhërmi Hotels: Artis Blue Relax Hotel • Acta 1939 • Rahoni Park & Suites

I put these two coastal towns together since they’re so close geographically (30 minutes apart) and offer a similar vibe. I much prefer Himarë to Dhërmi, but I’m a bit biased since I got to know Himarë better than anywhere on my trip. But both offer awesome boardwalk restaurants, laid-back vibes, boating opportunities, and dreamy sea views.

The Albanian Riviera is unbeatable to me, but it all depends on what kind of environment you seek. If a beautiful, small-town coastal stay (swoon) checks your boxes, stay in Himarë or Dhërmi.

Tirana

Best Tirana Hotels: Vila Koja Boutique Hotel • Hotel Town House • Xheko Imperial Luxury Hotel & Spa

You’ll likely begin your trip to Albania at Tirana International Airport. TIA is about 40 minutes from the capital city. Though Tirana is a bit overwhelming, I recommend spending a couple of nights here to soak in the culture of the country.

Tirana offers a multitude of museums highlighting the country’s turbulent history, from ancient times to just 30 years ago. There are also a ton of different cultural sites to visit near the city center. On the flipside, you can do incredible hiking at Mount Dajti National Park, only 30 minutes away.

What Tirana lacks in charm, it makes up for in entertainment and history. I stayed in the Blloku neighborhood, which offered a great combination of safety, great food, and character.

Again, I don’t recommend spending your entire trip in Tirana, but it’s worth a few days of exploration to gain a better understanding of the country’s place in the world.

Ksamil/Sarandë

View of the ancient Roman ruins surrounded by greenery — *Ancient Roman ruins near Ksamil*

Best Ksamil/Sarandë Hotels: Titania Hotel • Hotel Mira Mare • Villa Green Garden

Ksamil and Sarandë are touristy, upscale coastal towns in the far southern part of Albania. You should stay here if you want to indulge in high-end accommodations and fancy restaurants by the Ionian Sea. We enjoyed lunch here on the way to Butrint Park and were impressed by how well-maintained everything looked compared to other pit stops we’d made.

Ksamil is super close to the border with Greece, so you can easily switch back and forth between countries from here. The Greek island of Corfu is a stone’s throw across the water. Sarandë is closest to the famous Blue Eye. Spend a long getaway in one of these seaside towns, but know you won’t get the authentic Albanian experience.

Vlorë

Best Vlorë Hotels: Veranda Boutique Hotel • Sea & Sand Hotel • Hotel Gold

Another coastal gem, Vlorë is the first stop on the way to the popular southern Albanian region. This is the third-largest city in the country, so you can count on finding a myriad of things to do and restaurants to enjoy.

Vlorë is situated at the meeting of the Adriatic and Ionian seas. The promenades wrap around beautiful alcoves of green-blue water. Vlorë is a great choice if you want a combination of big city excitement and coastal beauty.

Shkodër

Overlooking view of the Mesi Bridge ruins surrounded by greenery — *The Mesi Bridge ruins near Shkodër*

Best Shkodër Hotels: Hotel Villa Linda • Vila Sela • Hotel Shpija e Gjyshit

This northern town is considered the cultural capital of Albania. Close to the border with Montenegro and the Albanian Alps, it’s a gorgeous home base for those who love hiking, climbing, and adventure. It’s also the most affordable town on this list, with nightly rates as low as $20 USD.

Wander charming cafes, ancient castle ruins, and waterfront paths around Lake Shokër. The metropolitan parts of the city are a bit intense, but the arts district and other historical areas are much more peaceful. My best friends raved about their month-long stay in Shkodër.

Things to Know Before You Go to Albania

The author Betty Hurd looking at the goat — *Goats roamed the streets everywhere we went*

Google Maps is unreliable

Google Maps and Apple Maps are not accurate in Albania. We found ourselves directed to drive straight through cement walls and into ditches thanks to the apps. Keep this in mind if you plan to rent a car in Albania.

Navigation apps will start you in the right direction, but you may want a physical map if you don’t trust your ability to read traffic signs. Keep an eye on street signs and landmarks in case your apps fail you. You can always ask a local for directions if need be!

Leks are the main currency, and cash is king

A man smiling for a photo with a handful of leks in front of him — *A handful of leks*

Leks are preferred to Euros in Albania. Take out enough cash to get you through a few days for all of your expenses – food, drinks, museum entry fees, and items from the convenience store. I thought a small ATM withdrawal on my first day in Tirana would cover me for the entire trip, but I ran out of cash by the end of day two.

Some businesses take credit cards, but cash is widely preferred and often the only form of accepted payment. We even had to pay cash for a tire replacement at the auto mechanic shop, which was 10,000 leks (over $100 USD)!

Driving is chaotic and requires confidence/skill

Closeup look of the street signs in Albania — *We didn’t understand half of the street signs in Albania*

Driving in Albania is nuts, man. I thank my lucky stars that my boyfriend drives a stick-shift because I probably would have totaled the car if I’d been behind the wheel. People pay little attention to speed limits and take on blind cliffside corners like Formula One drivers. Putting on your hazard lights gives you free rein to park anywhere, and I mean anywhere.

I read a stat at the Bunk’Art 2 Museum that only 1% of Albanians had a driver’s license in 1950, compared to almost 60% in the US. The country has been deprived of driving skills for many years.

Cats, goats, and dogs make for nonchalant roadblocks. We rounded a corner once to find a loose horse running full speed into our lane of oncoming traffic. Driving in Albania is not for nervous drivers, let me tell ya.

Invest in travel insurance

Albania is an exciting destination, but it lacks the infrastructure you’re probably used to when it comes to medicine and emergencies. Cover yourself with travel insurance before you go, just in case. Check out Nate’s suggestions for travel insurance, especially if you’re a digital nomad or full-time traveler.

Take part in Xhiro every evening

Holding a cone of ice cream at the beach — *Everyone has an ice cream cone in hand during xhiro in Himarë*

Xhiro is a nightly ritual in Albania, and everyone is encouraged to partake! This is when you go on a leisurely stroll and people-watch at sunset. Enjoy a scoop of ice cream from the local parlor if you must. This community event brings a peaceful end to every day in Albania.

Try raki, the traditional spirit of Albania

A group of friends drinking a chilled round of raki at a bar in Himarë — *A chilled round of raki at a bar in Himarë*

Raki is a distilled spirit that holds great importance in Albanian culture. It’s basically the equivalent of moonshine in the US.

If you’re nice to your servers, many times they’ll offer you a shot of their homemade raki at any restaurant or bar. Be warned, raki is strong, and it burns. But the experience is unforgettable and creates a fun connection with the locals.

Drink bottled water

A man carrying bottles of water — *Stocking up on water bottles before our road trip the next day*

Albania is not the place to trust the tap water. Buy a big pack of bottled water at any convenience store for around 500 leks (~$5) to stay hydrated for the duration of your trip.

Bunkers are everywhere, and you can explore many of them

It is believed that communist leader Enver Hoxha built over 140,000 bunkers during his 40-year reign in Albania. They’re everywhere – backyards, roadsides, parking lots. Most are abandoned, so you can explore them when you find them. Be careful, though, they’ve been crumbling for the past 30+ years!

Albanians aren’t in a rush

The author Betty Hurd and her friends smiling for a photo with the staff of the pizza place — *The guys from our favorite pizza place invited us into the kitchen for a photo*

Albanians are a relaxed people, and they likely will not bend to your timely needs. Drivers don’t honk when you go slow, servers don’t bring the bill until you ask, and very little is worthy of major stress. Embrace the nature of the Albanians. Take a deep breath, and take it easy.

The language barriers are minimal (at least for English)

The language barrier in Albania is apparent, but it rarely can’t be overcome. Most people understand a bit of English, or gestures at the very least. We had very little trouble communicating with the locals during our trip.

***

My trip to Albania was one of the highlights of my life. The locals, the unbelievable scenery, and the history, paired with super affordable rates and great company, made it so worth it.

I highly recommend giving this lesser-traveled country a visit before the rest of the world discovers Albania and turns it into a mega-tourist destination. Go now while it still feels like a hidden gem all its own! Check out our ultimate European backpacking guide if you want to visit more incredible countries near Albania.