I wanted to learn about the indigenous inhabitants of Puerto Rico – and then I realized I was on my own.

When I started working as a Puerto Rico travel writer in 2021, I grew curious about everything related to the archipelago.

What I knew about it, even as a local, didn’t feel like enough if I was to guide others through the best attractions and places to visit.

So, I began a long (and endless!) journey to learn everything I could learn about this Caribbean destination. One of the things I was curious about? The indigenous inhabitants of Puerto Rico.

But, I discovered a harsh truth: there isn’t a governmental entity that efficiently promotes nor guides Puerto Ricans through their indigenous history. 

What’s worse — what little is left of the Taino (or any previous indigenous culture) is being destroyed, sold, or gatekept. 

And just like that, I was on my own in my journey to learn about my heritage.

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There isn’t a surviving Indigenous reserve in Puerto Rico, which makes matters worse. 

Although the Taino, along with the Spaniards and the Africans, are often mentioned as the ancestors of Puerto Ricans, little is known about them. Even less is known about the three cultures that preceded them, the Arcaics, the Igneris, and the Pre-taíno.

This is partly because there isn’t an actual (and official) Taino reserve, like in other American countries such as the United States and Canada.

The Taíno suffered brutal colonization under the Spanish empire in the 16th century. This made it impossible for their societies to survive as they were. 

Those who did survive fled into the mountains or mixed with the Spaniards. As a result, 61% of Puerto Ricans still carry Taino DNA [source]. 

So, most of our knowledge about the past relies on biased historical documents and archeological findings. 

However, Indigenous history is constantly (and I dare say purposely) erased with the lack of protection of archeological sites and poor education.

Does it ring a bell? Yes, the same has happened to many other Indigenous cultures on the American continent, and Puerto Rico has not been an exception. 

I quickly learned that if I wanted to gain more knowledge about the Indigenous people I couldn’t rely on my public schools’ history books. Nor could I expect clear and thorough guidance from governmental entities in charge of preserving Puerto Rico’s patrimony. 

Puerto Rico’s history is being destroyed, literally.

There is more than enough written material and archeological sites to learn about Puerto Rico’s history and original inhabitants. 

Although most include the biased records of the Spanish, research is still ongoing on the numerous local petroglyphs. This includes the infamous Nazario Collection, which is said to be the library of one of the most infamous indigenous chiefs in Puerto Rico.

Then, why isn’t there more information available about the indigenous people?

The government doesn’t actively promote the Taino culture.

Out of all the museums in San Juan, none are dedicated solely to Puerto Rico’s indigenous cultures.

The closest option is Museo de las Américas, which focuses on the indigenous culture and heritage of all of the American continent. 

Out of the seven exhibitions in the museum, only two cover partially local Indigenous cultures, and none exhibit original artifacts found in Puerto Rico. 

The MHAA Museum in Rio Piedras does have original artifacts, but they cover a minimal part of the museum.

Additionally, the history-focused tourism campaigns revolve heavily around European history with Old San Juan, Ponce, and San Germán as the main destinations. 

This inclination is also evident in the tour offerings available in Puerto Rico.

A quick internet search of Puerto Rico tours will show that walking tours in San Juan, snorkeling at beaches, El Yunque, and visiting offshore islands are the most popular excursions in the archipelago.

But, most of these companies are private, right?

When you look at the suggested itinerary for first-timers in Puerto Rico created by the local official destination marketing organization, you’ll notice important Indigenous landmarks like Cueva del Indio in Arecibo and Caguana Indigenous Ceremonial Park in Utuado aren’t promoted.

In comparison, you can count over 15 historical European attractions. Numbers speak for themselves.

If that wasn’t enough, the lack of proactive research, outdated protection laws for archeological sites, and illegal construction account for many lost sites and information. 

Once discovered, many archeological sites are buried again, sometimes built over.

Although numerous settlements have been found in Puerto Rico, only a few are open to the public. Many settlements are found and then re-buried. 

Imagine my horror when I learned some of these settlements have knowingly been built over. That is the case of Angostura in Barceloneta, now under a shopping mall.

But, not all settlements get buried. In some cases, archeologists retrieve the artifacts but archive them at a place out of the reach of most Puerto Ricans.

Many sites are gate-kept, abandoned, or sold.

Puerto Rico’s indigenous archeological sites that are disclosed are often gate-kept, abandoned, or sold.

Take La Cueva del Indio in Las Piedras for example. The site has been the center of plenty of research and many findings, which of course, aren’t disclosed to the general public. 

As I toured the site with the local guide, one thing became apparent, there weren’t enough funds or interest to promote the place.

This site was discovered accidentally during construction. The local government agreed with the land owner to stop construction and keep the site as it was for a few years. After that, nobody knows what will happen. 

I wouldn’t be surprised if it ended up under a shopping mall like Angostura in Barceloneta.

And just so you get an idea, the site houses over 200 petroglyphs and multiple ceremonial plazas, deteriorating with humidity, moss, and erosion because no governmental entity seems to care enough to preserve them. 

I asked the local guide about his opinion about why these places were abandoned and not promoted enough. He simply answered: “It’s not convenient for Puerto Ricans to create a sense of identity.”  

While some sites are heavily gate-kept in the name of preservation (there are over 100 ceremonial parks on the island), others are unprotected. 

Such are the cases of La Piedra Escrita in Jayuya and Charco El Hippie in Naguabo.

These sites have petroglyphs, but instead of being protected or retrieved from the area, they are “open to the public” in the most negligent possible way. 

These sites face constant natural factors that continue to affect them, like erosion. Add to that the ignorance of visitors who step or draw over them, and it’s just a matter of time before they disappear. 

La Cueva del Indio in Arecibo exemplifies how the government neglects indigenous archeological sites.

You can also see this destruction at Cueva del Indio in Arecibo (not to be confused with the one in Las Piedras), which is the center of controversy. The site, as well as most of the coast surrounding it, has been somewhat privatized.

The main, and easiest, access to Cueva del Indio is through what is said to be private land. The owner charges $10 per person. For many years, locals and tourists have been paying a fee to enter the beachfront archeological site and have been convinced it is the only way.

These reviews from Summer 2024 describe visitors’ experiences:

Little did they know access to the coast is supposed to be public (and therefore free) and privatization is illegal. Instead, for years, both this coast and the archeological site have been treated as private for lucrative purposes.

A local non-profit organization known as Defendiendo la Cueva del Indio took matters into its own hands and started denouncing the illegal activities and privatization of the area. 

The legal battle has reached international newspapers. Still, economic interests are strong and governmental entities continue to overlook the matter. 

And while the owners say they are charging for safe parking in the area, and there are indeed other areas to access (I use them frequently, and no, they aren’t illegal), the entrance through the parking is the safest and was historically the one used to enter the cave.

This is the most famous case of an indigenous archeological site being affected by economic interests, but it isn’t the only one. 

Indigenous history of Puerto Rico is under frequent threat and many more settlements are exposed to destruction and privatization in municipalities like Rincón, Caguas, Cayey, Jayuya, Carolina, and Loíza, among many others.

As I researched, I found a community working to save Puerto Rico’s indigenous heritage.

As I immersed myself in this research, not only did I feel I was on my own, but also felt like I was in a race against time (and apparently against a whole government trying to erase history). 

It took time and research to realize many others like me were trying to rescue Puerto Rico’s indigenous cultural heritage. 

I found new resources, communities, non-profit organizations, and individuals doing what their government couldn’t do. They’re taking matters into their own hands even if it needs to be done unofficially.  

Unofficial Indigenous communities as well as non-profit organizations like Movimiento Indígena Jíbaro-Boricua, Concilio Taíno Guatu-Ma-cu A Borikén, and United Confederation of the Taíno People are spreading awareness of the Taíno heritage.

More and more tour operators are including Taino archeological sites in their offerings, and some even make a whole Taino route like Sojourn Puerto Rico, Nativo Eco Tours, Tranki Tours, Paradise Tours, Soraya Tours, and Isla Caribe. 

Social media has also served as a tool for finding less-known Indigenous archeological sites and making them known to Puerto Ricans.

Aventura Caribe, for example, makes tours to multiple caves and off-the-beaten-path locations in Puerto Rico where it’s possible to find petroglyphs and pictographs. 

Similarly, many influencers and internet personalities like Roadtripeado and Puerto Rico Desde El Aire use their platforms to share the locations of sites with other history and culture lovers.

***

Although I didn’t find a local governmental entity that could efficiently guide me through the research of my roots (I’m still hoping to find one!), I did find communities and individuals that helped me out.

I know it might be harder for people visiting the island for a few days but, as a way to conclude, I’ll leave below a list of places where you can start. Happy exploring!

• Centro Ceremonial Indigena Caguana – Utuado
• Fideicomiso de Conservación e Historia – Vieques
• Museo de Arqueología, Historia y Epigrafía – Guayanilla
• Batey Delfín del Yagüez Archeological Park – Mayaguez
• Centro Ceremonial Indigena de Tibes – Ponce
• Jardín Botánico – Caguas
• Museo de Caguas – Caguas
• Museo del Cemí – Jayuya 
• Mural de Zamas – Jayuya
• La Piedra Escrita – Jayuya 
• Cueval del Indio – Arecibo
• Cueva Ventana – Arecibo
• Cueva del Indio (2) – Las Piedras
• Museo de Las Américas – San Juan
• Museo de Historia, Antropología y Arte – San Juan
• Parque Histórico Cueva María de la Cruz – Loíza

Next up, read my article about how studying to be a Puerto Rico tour guide made me appreciate my country more.