Paris’s outer districts are underrated & filled with things to do

Most people stay in central Paris the first time they visit. And that makes sense, particularly if you’ve traveled to enormous cities like London before. But Paris’s relatively small size means that it’s incredibly walkable. Paris’s best attractions are scattered throughout the city!

Paris has 20 arrondissements, or districts, spiraling out from the 1^st in the city center. The map of the districts looks like a snail. And once you get into the double-digit districts, 10-20, the likelier you are to find off-the-beaten-path experiences. You’ll also find significantly cheaper lodging.

Whether you’re returning to Paris or just want a unique experience during your trip, these are a few of my favorite double-digit activities to help you visit Paris like a local.

The 10^th – Lounge by a canal and dance the night away

Recently, I’ve found myself recommending the diverse, up-and-coming 10^th arrondissement both as a place to stay and as a place to go out. It is varied — I still avoid the areas near the train stations, as I do in most European cities. However, the eastern and southern edges of the district are incredibly fun.

On the southern side of the district, you’ll find the 3^rd arrondissement in the Marais, my favorite Paris neighborhood. But the prices you’ll pay in the 10th are so much cheaper than what you’ll pay in the 3^rd, even as you have incredible transport links at République station.

Not far from République, you’ll reach the Canal Saint-Martin. The canal lets you see the water from another perspective, which is a nice contrast to some of the banks along the Seine, which can have grime and rats. The small bridges overlooking the Canal Saint-Martin are also charming. 

After your picnic, end the night with a drink at the canal-side Le Comptoir Général. This jungle-decorated bar and restaurant is relaxed enough to chill in if you come earlier in the evening. But, stay until the 2 am closing time on the weekends to dance the night away with Caribbean and Latinx tunes.

The 11^th – See world-class opera, hang out with cats, and create gorgeous pottery

The 11^th has always been one of my favorite Paris neighborhoods. It’s the first place I moved when I came to Paris for good! It’s central, with great transport links at Bastille and République. It also borders the Marais, but it has much more local energy. You’ll find young families, singles, and lots of dogs here.

The eclectic side of the 11^th is easy to see when you look at its attractions. Here, you’ll find the digital art space, Atelier des Lumières, for an immersive experience. You’ll find tons of unique boutiques and cafés as well — check out Le Café des Chats if you’re a cat-lover! The sister location of the Paris Opera is located here, too.

I’ve been to the Opéra Bastille many times, to see everything from modern dance to an opera version of Billy Budd. There always seems to be something in season except at the very height of summer, so take a look!

Meanwhile, the 11^th doesn’t just have quirky and upscale activities. There are tons of fun hands-on activities here, too! One of my favorite hobbies of the last year has been ceramics. The Clay Atelier offers daily, weekend, monthly, and trimester-long courses. The instructors are top-notch.

Ask for privatization for a large group and an English-speaking instructor if your French isn’t fluent. I had a hard enough time following instructions even after being here for ten years! Though it doesn’t say it on the website, some of their instructors do have excellent English — as I found to my benefit. Just don’t blame them for my clumsy work…

The 12^th – Party in an airplane hanger, get the best produce in Paris and catch a classic film

I always recommend the 12^th as where to stay in Paris if you’re coming for a long time. The neighborhoods here are charming. There’s great green space. And if you stay close to Line 1, you can be in central Paris in a matter of minutes. And while the 12^th may seem quiet, it has its fun sides!

Ground Control is one of my all-time top Paris recommendations for warm weather. This venue centers around an old airplane hangar. Now, you can get food and drinks from a variety of vendors and hang out with friends in the sun. I love its festival-like atmosphere when I’m feeling like an evening (or an afternoon!) out.

But the 12^th isn’t just for partying. You’ll also find one of Paris’s best markets, the Marché d’Aligre, here. It’s open every day but Monday. My favorite thing is to come very early on a weekend morning and pick up fresh produce, then get my morning coffee at a nearby café and watch the crowds.

You’ll also find culture in the 12th. Head over to the Cinémathèque Française for classic films — including some you never knew existed! You can check the lineup on their website. 

Heads-up: if your French isn’t fluent, look for English-language movies labeled “VO.” This means that they’re in the original language with subtitles. “VF” means they’ve been dubbed, which can be funny, but only for a minute.  

The 13th – Explore classic tapestries and swim outside year-round

The 13^th can look foreboding if all you’ve seen of it is the modern national library. But dive deeper into the neighborhood and you’ll find some real treasures. 

The Butte-aux-Cailles neighborhood is especially charming. Go to check out its street art, then hop into the outdoor pool, Piscine de la Butte aux Cailles — it’s fed from a hot spring and open year-round.

The area also has a gem: the Gobelins factory, which creates tapestries to this day — though they once made them for the kings of France! While not a full-fledged Paris museum, there is a gallery attached to the factory. You’ll find incredible temporary exhibitions here. You can also go for an afternoon guided tour of the factory if you book in advance.

The 18^th – Walk in Amélie’s footsteps and get the best views of Paris

Okay, so I know that Montmartre isn’t exactly an off-the-beaten-path area for a lot of visitors. But other parts of the 18^th arrondissement can be. 

You’ll find some incredible weekend markets, small boutiques, and charming passageways around the Jules Joffrin Métro stop. It may look far, but it’s so fast to get around Paris from here.

In Montmartre, fans of the film Amélie will have a field day. You can visit the café where she works as a waitress in the film: The Deux Moulins Café. But, like New York’s famous Seinfeld diner, the interior is different, so be prepared. You’ll find more film locations on the Rue des Trois-Frères and near the Métro Lamarck-Caulaincourt — another area where I love to go out.

Amélie fans and those who have never seen the film will both love the Sacré Coeur Cathedral. The views from its terrace are the best in the city, in my opinion. But do keep an eye out for common Paris scams here. Scammers have tried me here more than once.

The 19^th – Catch top street art, see hidden Paris, and visit an unusual beer garden

Paris’s 19^th is a bustling, fun — and very hilly — area to explore. You’ll find tons of local color, delicious food, and street art here. In fact, you can use it as a starting point for exploring “Street Art Avenue,” which will take you up into the neighboring suburb of Saint-Denis (you can find the map here).

You’ll also get the chance to check out one of my favorite Paris parks: Buttes-Chaumont. Not only did I feature this park in my novel The Ballerinas, but I also go here for picnics all the time! Try the outdoor bar/beer garden in the park, Rosa Bonheur, to get to stay long after dark while chatting and even dancing.

There’s even more greenery to explore on the Petite Ceinture. Here, you’ll wander in greenery on the tracks of an abandoned railway line going around the edges of Paris. Access isn’t limited to the 19^th district, though you can reach it here in two spots: on Rue de Thionville and at 2 bis rue de l’Ourcq. But you won’t find it near the Louvre!

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Thanks for reading! Those are just a few of my favorite Paris attractions outside the center — the city offers tons more in the 14^th, 15^th, 16^th, and 20^th arrondissements to explore! Which ones will you add to your Paris itinerary?