My perfect rainy day in Paris

Just like Doris Day’s song says, “I love Paris in the springtime, and I love Paris in the fall.” But both of those times are prone to rainy weather. 

Even though spring and fall are some of the best times to visit Paris, what should you do when la pluie (rain) threatens your itinerary?

First of all, don’t worry! Some of my favorite Parisian activities are outdoors—but there’s tons to do inside, too. If you’re looking for inspiration, here’s what my perfect rainy day in Paris would look like!

Get prepped for the weather!

Before anything else, I’d need to prepare for the day! This means dressing appropriately and carrying my travel umbrella. I tend to take this with me if rain is forecast at all—I don’t like to gamble. Plus, my travel umbrella is also small enough to fit into most of my bags. (Just one reason it’s on my Paris packing list!)

In the end, what you wear will depend on your comfort with getting wet. I wear rainboots and a hooded jacket along with my umbrella, but my tolerance for the damp is low.

Keep in mind that umbrellas are fairly expensive in Paris compared to the U.S. Also, the Parisian streets can be narrow, leading to lots of splashing! I don’t recommend wide-legged jeans for a rainy day.

Have a cozy, big breakfast at T’Cup

My top rainy-day priorities are comfort and coziness. 

You’ll find both in abundance at T’Cup, one of my favorite Paris restaurants. Their intimate, Alice-in-Wonderland meets Harry-Potter atmosphere is perfect. And you can get their enormous, delicious “British” brunch every day of the week! The only exception is Mondays when they’re closed. 

But not everyone wants a multi-course breakfast. If I’d eaten a lot the night before or just wanted something quick, I’d go to the Used Book Café – Merci nearby.

Merci has just a few indoor tables. However, the walls are lined with books, and the atmosphere is warm and fuzzy. Their breakfasts are much smaller than T’Cup’s. Combined with the fact that you might have to wait for a table, this is a good choice for a relaxed, lighter bite.

Check out the Picasso Museum

As a Paris local, I’ve visited most of the bigger museums multiple times. On a rainy day, I like to check out the temporary exhibitions at smaller museums. 

The Picasso Museum in the Marais area, for example, is a top Paris museum despite its small size. I saw a Sophie Calle exhibit there on a rainy day in November, and it’s one of my favorite Paris memories!

While tickets to popular exhibitions will sell out in advance, that isn’t always the case. It’s worth asking at the entrance if tickets are still available. Even if you can’t get into the temporary exhibition, the permanent collection may still have secrets to share!

Have a hearty lunch at the Café des Musées

The rain may have ruined your plans for a (dry) lunch on a terrace. But don’t worry! On my perfect rainy day in Paris, I’d go around the corner from the Picasso Museum. There, at the Café des Musées, I’d get a small table and pull out a book.

This cozy bistrot claims to have the best beef bourguignon in Paris. And I believe them! It’s a great choice for a chilly, rainy day. The steak here is also superb. Service is friendly and bilingual. And the prices remain reasonable despite the restaurant’s popularity and central location.

Visit the Jardin des Plantes

You may be wondering if I’m joking—recommending a botanical garden in the rain? Hear me out! 

First, the natural history museum inside the Jardin des Plantes is incredible. I’d love to wander its collections of dinosaurs and other fascinating items on a cozy day. 

However, I know that not all people are as museum-happy as I am. Two museums in one day (even Paris’s best museums!) can be a lot. If you want to get in touch with nature, head out to the greenhouses. You’ll get to see plants from around the world cultivated here. And neither they nor you will get wet!

For the truly brave, walking through the gardens during light rain can be a treat, too. You get to see the plants from a rare perspective. Meanwhile, crowds will be virtually nonexistent, ensuring that you get to linger at each specimen as long as you like. 

Cozy or classy dinner 

Where I’d eat dinner would depend on my mood. If I wanted a casual, lighter dinner, I’d head over to the 3rd arrondissement. There, I’d eat on the terrace at Le Trésor. 

This French restaurant has an extensive terrace overlooking a quiet impasse. Don’t worry, it’s well covered! They’ve offered blankets and heating in the past, too. Their French classics are perfectly cooked. The waitstaff has also let me linger over a cup of tea or coffee after dinner, too.

But after a day of quiet interiors, I might want something more spectacular. That’s when I’d see if I could get a last-minute booking at Madame Brasserie, in the Eiffel Tower.

This newer addition to the Eiffel Tower’s restaurants is less fancy than its companion, Le Jules Verne. But you’ll still get excellent food. And where better to watch the rain fall on the city than from its most famous monument? 

If you can get a last-minute booking, congratulations! But make sure to review the restaurant’s dress code before going. You don’t want to be sent back out into the rain!

Explore the arts scene

After a leisurely dinner watching the rain, I’d want to get back out into the city. Two of my favorite things to do in Paris are to go to book signings and to watch dance. Luckily, these (usually) happen indoors! 

For a guaranteed ticket, it’s best to plan ahead. But some of my best Paris experiences have been last-minute choices to see a play or attend an event. It’s definitely possible to get tickets to same-day events!

For a book signing, I’d check the online calendars of my favorite English-language bookshops: Smith & Sons, the Red Wheelbarrow, and Shakespeare & Company. 

For dance, language isn’t an issue! Look at the Opéra Garnier de Paris, the Opéra Bastille, and the Palais des Congrès to see if they have last-minute tickets available.

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Dashing between the raindrops isn’t for everyone! And with luck, you’ll get great weather on your Paris trip. Next up, read what I wrote about French manners, and how they surprise Americans.