I rode the Borealis, Amtrak’s new train from Milwaukee to Minneapolis

One of my favorite things about living in Paris is how easy it is to take the train to other European cities. Back in my hometown of Milwaukee, the main train service has only been to Chicago for years. And while I’ve used that service tons of times to get back and forth from the Windy City, it’s been limited.

All that changed this last spring with the launch of Amtrak’s Borealis train. Running from Chicago through Milwaukee and up to Minneapolis, the train covers a ton of ground.

I had plans to see friends in the Twin Cities this winter, so I thought I’d check it out. Here’s what I found!

My last experience getting up to Minneapolis

The last time I was in Minneapolis was two years ago for a book event. It was also in December, and I drove from Madison. It took just over four hours, while the drive back to Milwaukee took around five.

I’ve been driving for years, including in Paris. However, I’d overestimated my comfort with long-haul Midwestern driving, particularly in winter! There was a snowstorm, which complicated everything. But beyond that, the more rural highways had few lights. There weren’t many stops along the way. And I found myself clutching the wheel with white knuckles by the end of both journeys.

So this time, I wasn’t going to make the same mistake. I was searching for flights when I saw that the Borealis train had launched this spring. I decided to look into it.  

My practicalities & expectations for the Borealis

A flight from Milwaukee to Minneapolis is just over an hour. But there were a few things that made me hesitate, from my carbon footprint to the hassle of airport security. Apart from that, I love trains: there’s something romantic about going across the country by rail.

And what I saw of the Borealis only confirmed my decision. A round-trip ticket for my weekend was just over $100. The train has free WiFi and outlets at every window.

The biggest factor that convinced me? No middle seats! I’m only five-foot-three, but I can’t stand being squeezed between other travelers. (Blame it on being a middle child with two taller siblings!) The Borealis seats are laid out two-by-two.

The ride is just under six hours, which is a long journey. However, it runs twice a day. Instead of taking the later journey, I decided to take the morning train. That way, I could try working while en route. After all, it would allow me to check out that Wi-Fi and charger capability!

I decided to take a chance.

My journey from Milwaukee to Minneapolis

I arrived at the Milwaukee Intermodal Station about half an hour before my train, as my ticket recommended. I knew from my experience taking Amtrak’s Hiawatha train to Chicago that this was likely too long. Still, it would give me a good spot in line, as seats and luggage spaces aren’t reserved. And there was already a line forming!

The train arrived around twenty minutes late, but the conductors got us boarded quickly.

I wasn’t sure what to expect in terms of seating, as the train was coming from Chicago. But I was pleasantly surprised, as the train was mostly empty. I ended up with two seats to myself. This was lucky, as there wasn’t an armrest between them. 

Unlike lots of trains I’ve been on, the Borealis had comfortable seats. They looked like leather in the pictures online but were actually comfortable synthetic. 

I plugged in my computer right away to find the outlet worked perfectly. WiFi connected without a problem. However, the text accompanying the WiFi connection explained that it could get weak in rural areas. Of course. I downloaded the work I needed to do while we were still near Milwaukee, just in case.

Over the next five hours and fifty minutes, we passed stunning scenery. Small towns, rolling fields, and, towards the end, the gorgeous stretches of the Mississippi River.

There was a bathroom in each train car, and there was a café car that opened for service shortly after departure. The food wasn’t fancy—mostly snacks and sandwiches—but it was a godsend for me, as I’d forgotten to bring a bottle of water!

The train made several stops: Columbus, Portage, Wisconsin Dells, Tomah, La Crosse, Winona (MN), and Red Wing (MN). 

We arrived in Minneapolis only a few minutes behind schedule. It worked out perfectly, as Union Station is bigger than Milwaukee’s Intermodal Station and my friend was still parking. The Christmas fair at the train station made this harder for him, but it made my arrival all the more charming.

My journey back: from Minneapolis to Milwaukee

After two gorgeous days in Minneapolis, I was ready to hop back on the Borealis. Just like on my journey there, I had a pair of seats to myself. And although I plugged in my computer and connected to the WiFi, I soon got lost in the scenery and dozed off.

The conductors had been friendly and helpful on my journey up, but this crew was particularly jovial. From the announcer’s jokes about vaping to the lovely café service, I felt like I was among friends.

We had to stop for a few minutes as a tractor attempted to cross the tracks ahead of us in northern Wisconsin, delaying us slightly. But otherwise, everything seemed perfect until dark fell. We weren’t too far from Milwaukee: about an hour away, I estimated. However, the train chugged to a stop.

After a few minutes, the announcer came on to let us know that we were waiting for a “sister train” to pass. I sat with growing frustration, texting my ride later times as the minutes passed. After about half an hour, we finally got moving again.

But in another few minutes, the train halted again. A Christmas train, lit up with lights, was passing us, on its way to a small-town crowd.

In the end, I arrived back in Milwaukee about an hour later than anticipated. This isn’t a huge deal, but it was frustrating that the last two hours were so slow. And my brain processed the seven-hour ride time as much longer than the five hours and fifty minutes scheduled. The difference, though, wasn’t actually that much!

Would I take the Borealis again?

I absolutely plan on taking the Borealis again. The comfort of the cars, the beauty of the scenery, and the ability to get work done made this a great trip.

However, I wouldn’t necessarily plan a Friday-to-Sunday return around the holidays. In the end, that’s the main reason we were held up. And, if it was necessary, I’d take a more flexible mindset about timing. Planning on a taxi or rideshare from the station instead of getting a ride would have cut down my stress. I was so worried about my friend and my sister sitting in the station parking lots, waiting for me.

But if you’re looking for an old-fashioned trip between Chicago and Minneapolis with modern conveniences? The Borealis just might be for you!

***

Thanks for reading! Next, read Betty’s article: Save your gas money. Take the Amtrak Pacific Surfliner along the California coast.