Where to Stay in Buenos Aires for First Timers

9 Best Neighborhoods & Areas

Buenos Aires is a sprawling city covering 78 square miles of terrain along the La Plata River. And that’s just the city. The 13 million people in the Buenos Aires metropolitan area include many neighboring suburbs in the surrounding Buenos Aires Province.

Officially, Buenos Aires has 48 different neighborhoods. Most of the city’s neighborhoods are not ideal for tourists visiting Buenos Aires for the first time, though. In general, most visitors will want to stay in one of the following 9 areas:

Palermo Soho

👉 Best Overall Area to Stay in Buenos Aires | ✨ Best Palermo Soho Hotels: Duque Hotel Boutique & Spa ($$$) • Miravida Soho Hotel & Wine Bar ($$$) • Corazón de Palermo Soho ($)

Technically Palermo is a single neighborhood, but it’s so gigantic locals sub-divide it into several named areas. The most popular parts of the leafy green Palermo district are Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood, which are separated by the wide Avenida Juan B Justo, as well as train tracks.

Palermo is home to some of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires, trendy coffee shops, hipster dive bars, and busy nightlife. Overall, Palermo is the “place to be” in Buenos Aires in the evenings. 

Having stayed all over Palermo, I personally prefer Palermo Soho. It has a better mix of shopping, residential, dining, and nightlife areas than any other part of the city. In particular, you’ll find a huge cluster of bars, restaurants, and cafes around the famous Plaza Serrano.

Moreover, I think Palermo Soho is better located than Palermo Hollywood. Palermo is a little out of the way from the tourist sights, and that’s definitely the biggest downside of staying here. Palermo Soho is a little further east than Palermo Hollywood, and thus it’s a shorter trip to Bosques de Palermo, Recoleta, and the downtown sites.

The Duque Hotel Boutique & Spa is a great choice if you want a little local flavor in your stay. The rooms feel more like a local home than a hotel, and the location can’t be beat. With rooms starting at just $200 USD/night, it’s actually pretty reasonably priced too.

Pros of Staying in Palermo Soho Neighborhood:

• Leafy, walkable streets
• Tons of great cafes, bars, restaurants, and shops
• A relatively safe(r) area of Buenos Aires

Cons of Staying in Palermo Soho Neighborhood:

• Not the most central location (far from the tourist sites)
• Hotels in Palermo are relatively pricey, and hard to find
• Some areas (especially around Plaza Serrano) can get loud at night

Palermo Hollywood

👉 Best Area For Dining & Nightlife | ✨ Best Palermo Hollywood Hotels: Fierro Hotel Buenos Aires ($$$) • Ilum Experience Home ($$$) • Apart Hotel Shoshana ($$)

Palermo Hollywood got its name because this area historically has been home to several Argentinian TV and movie production studios. As a neighborhood, it’s very similar to Palermo Soho, but you’ll find more restaurants and nightclubs – and fewer shopping areas.

I spent the initial phase of the pandemic in quarantine in Palermo Hollywood. It was eerie to see the usually busy streets completely deserted, but these days the tourists and activity have returned.

Every night in Palermo Hollywood you’ll find packed restaurants with tables occupying nearly every sidewalk corner, plus a group of nightclubs that pump music until past dawn (even on weekdays!). 

Overall, Palermo Hollywood is ideal for foodies looking to dine out or for partiers looking to go out all night. 

Pros of Staying in Palermo Hollywood:

• The best “ambiance” in Buenos Aires, with leafy and highly walkable streets
• Home to some of the best restaurants in Buenos Aires
• Great nightlife options for the party crowd

Cons of Staying in Palermo Hollywood:

• The location is relatively far from most Buenos Aires sites
• Hotels and apartment rentals in Palermo Hollywood can be pricey
• It’s a nightlife area, so some parts can get noisy

San Telmo

👉 Best Area For Backpackers & Budget Travelers | ✨ Best San Telmo Hotels & Hostels: Anselmo Buenos Aires, Curio Collection by Hilton ($$$) • Ribera Sur Hotel ($$) • Circus Hostel ($)

San Telmo was were I stayed on my first trip to the city a decade ago, back when I visited on a backpacking trip through South America. Indeed, San Telmo is still a good area to stay if you’re a backpacker or budget traveler. You’ll find several good hostels, like the popular Circus Hostel, as well as budget and mid-range hotels.

San Telmo is one of the more historic parts of Buenos Aires, and has a bit of a bohemian vibe. It is famous for dinner tango show venues and for cobblestone streets lined with street art, musical performers, and antique shops. Even if you pick a different neighborhood as your base, you can’t miss the Sunday San Telmo Street Fair around Plaza Dorrego.

Pros of Staying in San Telmo Neighborhood:

• Relatively affordable accommodation
• Easy to walk to Puerto Madero or La Boca
• Lots of local culture

Cons of Staying in San Telmo Neighborhood:

• Has earned a bit of a reputation for crime and petty theft, though San Telmo is slowly getting safer

Recoleta

👉 Best Area For Sightseeing | ✨ Best Recoleta Hotels: Alvear Palace Hotel ($$$$) • Mio Buenos Aires ($$$) • Blank Hotel Recoleta ($$) • Sileo Apart Hotel ($$) 

My girlfriend Clara says the best neighborhood in Buenos Aires is Recoleta – and she certainly should know, as she is a Buenos Aires local!

Recoleta is one of the most upscale parts of the city, centrally located, surrounded by parks and green spaces, filled with restaurants and cafes, and home to some of the “must visit” attractions. 

Recoleta is filled with soaring historic buildings, Parisian townhomes, shops, cafes, bookstores, and universities. My personal favorite spot is the gorgeous El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore. Check out the National Museum of Fine Arts, the Recoleta Cultural Center, and the weekend market at Plaza Francia. Also, weird though it may seem at first, the singly most famous attraction here is the gorgeous Recoleta Cemetery (home to the tomb of Argentinian icon Eva Perón).

For a unique hotel, get one of the rooms at the Sileo Apart Hotel that overlooks the cemetery. Creepy or cool? You decide!

Pros of Staying in Recoleta Neighborhood:

• One of the most walkable areas, which wide strollable streets
• Central location (perfectly situated between downtown Buenos Aires and Palermo)
• One of the two safest neighborhoods, along with Puerto Madero

Cons of Staying in Recoleta Neighborhood:

• Street noise can be an issue (if your hotel is on a main avenue, get a room on a high floor)

Centro Buenos Aires (San Nicolás / Montserrat / Microcentro)

👉 Most Central Area in Buenos Aires | ✨ Best Centro Hotels: Esplendor by Wyndham Buenos Aires Tango ($$) • Huinid Obelisco Hotel ($$) 

The small neighborhoods of San Nicolás (aka Microcentro) and Monserrat straddle the bustling Avenida 9 de Julio and together compose downtown Buenos Aires. This area is a mix of business and residential buildings, with a lot of performing arts mixed in. 

Avenida Corrientes in particular is famous. I call it the “Broadway of Buenos Aires,” and seeing a show here is a popular draw. Other attractions in this area include Plaza de Mayo, home to the Casa Rosada (or Argentinian Presidential Palace), and the soaring Obelisco monument which dominates the center of Avenida 9 de Julio. 

San Nicolás and Montserrat are popular choices with tourists because there are just simply so many hotels to choose from downtown. You’ll find everything from boutique hotels to luxury hotels to budget accommodation. This area is also conveniently within walking distance to Puerto Madero, San Telmo, Retiro, and Recoleta. So this is a great area to stay in Buenos Aires if you love exploring a city on foot.

Pros of Staying in Centro Buenos Aires:

• Super central location – easy to get anywhere and see the tops sites
• Lots of great art, cafes, pizza shops
• Downtown has a ton of energy 
• Many hotels to choose from

Cons of Staying in Centro Buenos Aires:

• Not the prettiest neighborhood (some streets can frankly feel a little gritty in places)

Puerto Madero

👉 Best Area For Modern Luxury | ✨ Best Puerto Madero Hotels: Alvear Icon Hotel ($$$$) • Faena Hotel Buenos Aires ($$$$) • Hilton Buenos Aires ($$$) • Hotel Madero Buenos Aires ($$$)

If you’re looking for luxury accommodation, Puerto Madero might be your best choice. Puerto Madero is a former dockside port area that has been converted into an affluent area and tourist attraction. 

Where the docks used to be, you’ll find a large pedestrian boardwalk running parallel on both sides of the narrow Rio Dique. It’s dotted with steakhouses, restaurants, ice cream parlors, and trendy cafes. On a nice day, it’s the perfect place for a sunset stroll along the Puente de la Mujer suspension bridge. 

In the Puerto Madero area, there are many high rise apartments and luxury hotels with modern amenities and comfortable rooms. A short walk toward the main river is the Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve, which has a lot of green space and trails perfect for jogging. 

Overall, if you can afford it, Puerto Madero is a solid and safe choice.

Pros of Staying in Puerto Madero Neighborhood:

• Puerto Madero has the most modern accommodation in the city
• One of the safest areas, along with Recoleta
• Tons of fancy restaurants and places to eat 

Cons of Staying in Puerto Madero Neighborhood:

• Expensive
• Just my opinion but, to me, Puerto Madero does feel a little sterile
• Though a short walk to downtown, it can sometimes be difficult to get a taxi in Puerto Madero as it’s cut off from the rest of the city 

Belgrano

👉 Best Area For Families & Long Term Stays | ✨ Best Belgrano Hotels: Ker Belgrano Hotel ($$) • Argenta Suites Belgrano ($$$)

Ok, we are getting a little deeper into our list of neighborhoods. If you’re a first timer in the city, I would recommend limiting your choice to the above areas. But, if you have a longer stay in Buenos Aires or are looking for a quieter residential area, Belgrano is definitely worth consideration. 

Belgrano is a quiet area with a mix of upscale residential buildings, embassy buildings, and commercial construction. It’s also home to Barrio Chino, or the Buenos Aires Chinatown, which is worth visiting to try the various street food stalls and noodle joints. On a sunny weekend day, it’s fun to hang out at the Barrancas de Belgrano park. 

The main issue with staying in Belgrano is that’s a bit far from the rest of the city. So, while this is not ideal for first-timers, it is a great place to consider if you’re a digital nomad or looking to live in Buenos Aires for a longer period of time. 

Pros of Staying in Belgrano Neighborhood:

• Safe, quiet, and relatively calm part of the city
• Lots of higher-end apartments and accommodation options

Cons of Staying in Belgrano Neighborhood:

• Very far from central Buenos Aires (a taxi to La Boca could take as much as an hour in traffic)

Villa Crespo

👉 Best Area For Staying Off the Beaten Path | ✨ Browse Apartment Rentals in Villa Crespo

Villa Crespo is a rapidly changing local neighborhood just south of Palermo that is increasingly becoming popular with expats and tourists. Villa Crespo has quite a few bars and restaurants of its own. Plus, you’ll find a lot of art scattered around the neighborhood (it was one of my favorite places for long strolls to get outside during the pandemic). 

Take a dance class at the neighborhood club Villa Malcolm, check out one of the local Jewish delis, or shop for clothes and leather goods on Murillo Street. Villa Crespo is a great choice when you want to see the city from a different angle. Of course, at the end of the day, Villa Crespo isn’t all that far off the beaten path – you’re just a short walk to Palermo after all!

Pros of Staying in Villa Crespo Neighborhood:

• Somewhat off the beaten path, while still fairly safe and reasonably central 
• Lots of affordable apartment rentals (search rentals here)

Cons of Staying in Villa Crespo Neighborhood:

• Not many hotels to choose from 
• The location isn’t bad, but not great either 

Colegiales

👉 Best Area For Family-Friendly Living | ✨ Browse Apartment Rentals in Colegiales

If you want a quiet and family residential area close enough to walk to Palermo, check out the underrated Colegiales neighborhood. The leafy green streets here make it another of my favorite areas for taking a stroll. 

While there isn’t as much going on here as in the Palermo neighborhood, you’ll find pockets of activity around Elcano and Federico Lacroze avenues, where young professionals and students meet up at cafes and trendy bars. Overall, it’s worth consideration for families or younger couples looking for a quieter stay in Buenos Aires. 

Pros of Staying in Colegiales Neighborhood:

• Beautiful leafy streets
• Relatively safe area 

Cons of Staying in Colegiales Neighborhood:

• A lack of hotels to choose from, so you’ll need to search for apartments in Colegiales
• A bit far from the city center

Tips for Staying in Buenos Aires

Realize that Buenos Aires is a Massive City

Buenos Aires truly is a huge city.

So when choosing where to stay, think first about finding a convenient location relative to what you want to do in Buenos Aires. If sightseeing is top of your list, consider staying in Centro or in Recoleta. If dining and nightlife are the priority, then the Palermo neighborhood may be better for you.

Thankfully, Ubers and taxis are cheap and plentiful. And the Buenos Aires Subte (subway) is pretty good too. So it’s definitely possible to move around the city during your stay. But, as Buenos Aires is such a great city for walking, it’s always better to find a place within walking distance of the things you plan to do.

Watch Out for Doggie Poo

As I mentioned, one of the great things about Buenos Aires is that the city is just made for taking a stroll. Between the leafy tree-lined streets and the abundant street art, walking in Buenos Aires is a joy. 

Except, that is, that or the fact that dog poo is literally everywhere on the sidewalks!

For whatever reason, many porteños choose not to pick up after their pups. I’ve been to literally hundreds of cities all around the world, and I’ve never seen a place with more dog poop on the sidewalks! It’s a real shame, but the truth is you need to always keep one eye out or else you’ll inevitably end up stepping in it! 

Check the Best Dollar Blue Rate

Argentina has several different currency conversion rates.

Yes, it’s extremely weird for foreigners to comprehend. But that’s how it is.

There is the artificial “official” rate set by the government. 

And then there are several different “dollar blue” rates, which are the informal rates that reflect the true purchasing power of the dollar. The dollar blue is a better deal than the official rate. In the past, it’s been as much as double the official rate, but as of 2024 the rates are starting to converge.

This is a good site for checking the latest blue dollar rates.

Some foreign credits cards (but not all!) will give you a pseudo-blue rate on transactions. It may be “close enough” for your comfort, but check with your issuer before you go. I’ve heard many horror stories of travelers thinking they were paying with the blue rate, only to find out their bank was charging them a worse rate.

Regardless, the best blue rate will always be for crisp cash Benjamins! If you have $100 bills, you can exchange them at the cambio centers on Calle Florida.

Alternatively, you can also use Western Union to “send yourself” cash at a rate that is very close to the dollar blue. Just be aware that most Western Union locations have relatively low maximums they will give you in pesos, so the transaction fees can become substantial.

Watch Your Valuables In Public

Buenos Aires is a generally safe place to visit. Violent crime is rare, but petty crime, theft, and scams are honestly fairly common. This is true even (and, in fact especially) in the more touristy Buenos Aires neighborhoods. 

Keep your phone in your pocket as much as possible on the streets, as thieves have been known to ride by on motos and snatch phones out of the air. When sitting down at restaurants or cafes in Buenos Aires, be careful where you put your bags and valuables.

Buenos Aires Runs on a Late Schedule

Tourists who are used to eating dinner around 6:30 or 7 PM are in for a surprise in Argentina. In Buenos Aires, most restaurants won’t even be open then! Typically locals sit down to dinner around 9:30 PM or so.

Looking to go out and dance the night away? Realize that most Buenos Aires nightclubs will be completely deserted until 2 AM when partiers pour in and dance until well past dawn. 

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FAQs

What do hotel rooms cost on average?

The average price for a boutique hotel stay in Buenos Aires really varies, from as little as $50 to $75 USD per night for a budget boutique or $20 to $35 per night for a hostel, all the way up to $500 or more per night for a luxury hotel.

Overall, hotel prices in Buenos Aires are likely to be one of the more expensive parts of your trip to Argentina.

Can I save money by paying in cash with pesos for a hotel versus paying online?

I know what you’re thinking, but unfortunately the answer is probably not. You will almost certainly get the same rate booking online as if you try to pay cash (but, if you’re really thrifty, you could always call the hotel and ask).

The reason this comes up at all is because many tourists hear about Argentina’s “Dollar Blue” informal exchange rates. These rates used to offer an almost unbelievable conversion spread for cash transactions, but in recent years the gap has closed considerably.

But, even during the peak days of the Dollar Blue, most hotels still priced their rooms in dollars in their system. I have tried to pay with cash at a hotel, but they always changed the rate in pesos to account for the spread, so it ended up being a hassle with no payoff.

So, bottom line, it’s a good thought – but not one that is likely to work.

***

I hope I’ve helped you find the perfect place to stay. 

Next up, check out Clara’s guide to what to do in BA during your visit. It covers all the “must sees” but also some hidden local gems.