I went on holiday in Iran. It was unforgettable.

My friends and family know I love to travel, and they always ask me where I’m going next. It came as a shock in 2016 when my response was “Iran.”

My mum definitely wasn’t as excited as I was. 

I am fascinated by Islamic art, architecture, and culture. I also really love Persian food – it’s my comfort go-to. Turkey is one of my favourite countries and I always wanted Iran to be my next step.

So, when my Turkish friend emailed about an Iran tour he was guiding, I immediately responded, “I’m in.” It didn’t take any thought whatsoever.

Ever been curious about visiting Iran, or just wondering what it’s like? Read on. I’ll share how visiting this misunderstood country was one of the most enriching experiences of my life. 

Getting To Iran

Normally, I travel solo. But being Canadian, I am not permitted to enter Iran without being part of a guided tour. I preferred that anyway. I’m very comfortable being alone in Turkey. But I felt like I would need some help navigating Iran. 

Taking a tour vs. going solo enhanced my experience. It put the country and its challenges into context. It helped us navigate a vastly different culture. And we got to see so many incredible places with ease. The bonus was that my tourmates are now lifelong friends. 

My tour company, SRM Travel, assisted with the intricacies of the visa application, which is not for the faint of heart. 

There is a lot of paperwork involved, and your documents and passport need to be sent to several places for approval. I think the Iranian government knows more about me than I do!

A stressful experience was made even worse when my documents didn’t arrive in time and had to be completed in Istanbul. This can happen to even the most organized of us. But once I had that valuable visa in my hand at the eleventh hour, all the tears felt worth it. 

Soon enough I was on a plane to Tehran!

My Experience in Iran

I wasn’t sure what to expect when we arrived at Tehran’s Imam Khomeini International Airport. I was one of two Canadians in a group of 27 Americans. I worried about how we would be received. I think that was something we all had in the back of our minds. 

I was separated from the Americans when going through security. The customs officer took my passport and visa. He typed a few things into his computer. I sweated profusely. 

After a couple of minutes, he waved me through, wishing me a wonderful visit. The Americans also seemed to get through with no problems. We could all breathe a sigh of relief and begin our adventure. 

Driving through the streets of Tehran, I absorbed every detail. It was like nothing I’d ever seen before. 

There was seemingly no rhyme or reason to the traffic. The streets pulsated with market stalls and shoppers. And we passed by storefronts that looked like Apple and McDonald’s but weren’t quite the real thing. 

I loved immersing myself in the culture of Iran. I admired the beautiful handicrafts and indulged in way too many sweets. I got lost in the mazes of the bazaars and donned musty-smelling burqas at the sacred sites. I wouldn’t want to do that all the time, but it’s a fun memory. 

But the most unforgettable part of Iran’s culture is its people. 

Everywhere we went, locals smiled, stopped to chat, and wanted to take photos with us. The Persian people welcomed us with open arms and showed us hospitality like I’d never experienced. Even the Revolutionary Guards were nice to us. And this will stay with me forever. 

Modern life in Iran is vibrant and exciting. But every day I woke up eager to see the ancient sights. 

Iran isn’t overrun by tourists. My impression was that its historic attractions remain untouched and authentic. And because my visit was during winter, there was time to savor what I was seeing without the crowds. 

My entire trip was filled with “pinch me” moments, so it’s hard to choose a favorite. 

I admired all of the beautiful gardens in Shiraz. Played with the kids at a small school in Abyaneh. Had to be escorted out of Isfahan’s bazaar by the police (we got lost and they helped!). 

I roamed the streets of 5th Century Yazd and marveled at every detail in Persepolis. I still can’t believe I went there!

Iran was full of surprises. And the most unexpected one was its phenomenal fast food. By the time we reached Isfahan, all of us wanted a change from kebabs. 

Fast food joints are all over the big cities. But because of sanctions, familiar international chains can’t operate in the country. 

I think the fast food in Iran is actual food. It’s so good! And it holds the top spot for my favorite fried chicken. Of course, a group of North Americans descending on “Kentucky House” was very entertaining for the locals. Stereotypes, right? 

The good far outweighs the bad in Iran. But things are different and there were a few challenges. 

Iran is a cash society. And credit cards aren’t accepted in most places. There are no ATMs that work with international bank cards and money is hard to change. So, unfortunately, I had to watch my spending. I learned about needs vs. wants in Iran. 

Being a Muslim country, alcohol is not served. It didn’t bother me too much because I’m not a big drinker, but some of my tourmates found it hard. 

Crossing the street was the biggest danger we faced in Iran. The roads are busy and traffic rules aren’t as structured as at home. But it makes sense to them. 

Most of the time, I would just latch onto a local and follow them. Almost always, someone in a vehicle would smile and wave at me. 

As a woman, I was required to wear a hijab and modest clothing. Being cognizant of what I was wearing all the time was frustrating. I always forgot my hijab before I left my hotel room. And I found it cumbersome to always have it on.

All these layers were particularly annoying, but comical, when using the restroom. Squat toilets are everywhere in Iran. 

It’s important to me that I respect the culture and rules of the places I visit, and I enjoy participating in different customs. But by the end of my trip, I did feel a little resentment towards my male tourmates who could walk around unhindered. 

What My Time in Iran Taught Me

My visit to Iran had a profound impact on me. I went to places that I never thought I would see in my lifetime. I met people I will never forget. 

And I learned that you can’t believe everything you see on the news. Of course, Iran isn’t perfect. But nowhere is.

There are aspects of their culture that I don’t support. And aspects that I think North Americans could learn from. I don’t agree with everything their government does. But I also don’t agree with everything my government does. And it goes both ways. 

Iran is a complex place with a political system I can’t even begin to get my head around. I could feel an air of politics around me most of the time. 

But I didn’t want that to be the focus of my trip. I wanted to dive deep into Iran’s history and culture. I wanted to connect with the real Iranian people. 

What I discovered is that they’re no different than I am. They work hard. They treasure time with their families. And they love to just hang out with their friends over pizza and hamburgers. 

What I also learned from the hundreds of people that we met is that every day Iranians don’t view the West as an enemy. 

Almost all the people we encountered wanted to practice their English and show off what they knew about American culture. They wanted to take selfies with us and learn about who we were. 

Iranians are proud of their country. They were keen to give us a history lesson at every opportunity. They wanted us to meet their families. And they enthusiastically gave recommendations on the best places for tea. 

I hope my trip to Iran was not a once-in-a-lifetime experience. This country moved me in ways I never expected. And I hope to return to revisit my favorite places and discover new ones. 

Inshallah. 

If you can put politics aside and stay open and curious, a visit to Iran is a safe and unforgettable experience.

Time and time again, the locals said to me “Tell your friends and family to visit.” 

So, that’s what I am doing. 

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Thanks for reading! If you’re interested in traveling to other places in the Middle East, read my article about why I didn’t feel safe as a woman in Morocco, next.