Strathcona is a Historic Hidden Gem in Vancouver

One of the first things that visitors to Vancouver notice is how new and modern the city looks. Towers of glass make up the skyline and contemporary storefronts and landscaped parks line the city streets.

You wouldn’t know it, but Vancouver actually dates back to 1886.

When I travel, I revel in days spent visiting historic buildings and learning about a city’s past. This love of history led me to guide historic walking tours at the Vancouver Police Museum for four years.

We have history too… You just can’t see a lot of it anymore.

The Firehall Arts Centre from the outside — *This historic fire hall was built in 1906 and is now a performing arts theatre*

Glimpses of Vancouver’s history can be found in many of the city’s famous neighbourhoods. Every guidebook will recommend Gastown, Chinatown, and the West End.

Trendy shops and restaurants line Gastown’s cobbled streets. Chinatown is home to great cultural sights and even better dim sum. And some of the West End’s Victorian mansions still stand.

But for anyone who wants to dig deeper into Vancouver’s history, walk east of Chinatown, into Strathcona. Here, you’ll find Vancouver’s oldest residential neighbourhood.

To me, it’s one of the most special places in the city.

View of a houses from the outside in Strathcona — *Stathcona’s homes have so much character*

You won’t find any major Vancouver attractions in Strathcona. But this is the best place in Vancouver to spend a couple of hours wandering around if you have a passion for history and architectural heritage.

Travel photographers will be spoiled in Strathcona. It’s one of the most unique and diverse neighbourhoods in the city. You won’t have any glass high-rises getting in the way of a great shot!

Heritage organizations and museums run guided tours. It’s an incredible place to explore with an expert. That said, tours can be sporadic, so you might have to guide yourself. But, not to worry! There are markers all over the area that tell you all about the neighbourhood’s history and its favourite characters.

A green signpost that tells a story — *These signposts tell Strathcona’s tales*

A heritage building markers — *Heritage building markers*

Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the blue upside-down triangles that denote a heritage building. Strathcona has lots. But you don’t have to depend entirely on spotting signposts and markers.

In this article, I’ll give you a rundown of historic sites to look for in this hidden gem neighbourhood. I’ll also uncover the hidden histories and stories of Strathcona that have made Vancouver what it is today.

Strathcona’s Early Residents – the creation of a diverse neighbourhood

The author Catherine Driver smiling for a selfie with a colorful mural — *A mural commemorating the Indigenous community*

Indigenous communities have called this land home for thousands of years. But in 1865, the Hastings Lumber Mill opened at the foot of Dunlevy Street, in what is now Strathcona.

The area developed into a working class neighbourhood and was home to immigrants from all over the world who came to Vancouver seeking a better life.

The Chinese began migrating to Vancouver in the 1850s to participate in the Fraser Canyon Gold Rush. But the main wave arrived in the 1880s when Chinese workers were contracted to build the Canadian Pacific Railway.

A house with a gate near Chinatown — *Historic houses near Chinatown*

The Tsung Tsin Association building from the outside — *Chinese associations support the community*

They settled in what is now Chinatown and Strathcona. The land in these areas was undesirable and given to new immigrants, many of whom faced discrimination in other parts of Vancouver. It is a well-known part of Canadian history that the Chinese were treated terribly.

The Chinese were the main settlers of Strathcona, and the area is still home to a large community, many of whom are elderly.

But others also called this area home. The Jewish, Japanese, and Black, Italian, Greek, and Eastern European community, all lived side-by-side in relative harmony.

The Holy Trinity Russian Orthodox Church from the outside — *Holy Trinity Russian Orthodox Church*

The Sacred Heart Roman Catholic Parish from the outside — *Sacred Heart Roman Catholic Parish*

Strathcona’s residents got along and supported one another through trading and bartering. The local school was even known as “The League of Nations” due to its diverse student body.

Those living outside the area viewed the neighbourhood as dirty and dangerous. But they were always up for making their way here in search of a good time.

Strathcona’s Stories – cultural highlights and lasting legacies

View of a house from the outside surrounded by greeneries — *This is the place to see Vancouver’s gorgeous heritage architecture*

I always like to begin my time in Strathcona by exploring its Black history at the corner of Main and Union Streets.

In 1858, nearly 800 free Blacks fled California for Vancouver in search of a better life. They were joined by homesteaders from Oklahoma, and the Black sleeping car porters who worked on the trains that came and went from the nearby station. [Source]

At this time, Strathcona was known as The East End. The Black community settled in an area called Park Lane, commonly referred to as Hogan’s Alley.

A colorful mural at the Hogan’s Alley’s Black community — *This beautiful mural celebrates Hogan’s Alley’s Black community*

Hogan’s Alley was a lively area, especially at night. The neighbourhood housed gambling dens, a red light district, and illegal drinking establishments. There was never a dull moment here.

A staple of Hogan’s Alley was the venerable “chicken house”, of which there were many. These often operated as speakeasies. The most famous was Vie’s Chicken and Steak, a remnant of which can still be seen today.

View of the Vie’s Chicken & Steak now — *This little shack is all that remains of Vie’s Chicken & Steak*

Owned by Viva Moore and her husband Robert, this chicken house operated from 1948 to 1980.

Famous musicians like Louis Armstrong, Sammy Davis Jr., Nat King Cole, and Count Basie would visit Vie’s after playing their shows in Vancouver. Jimi Hendrix’s grandmother, Nora, also worked here.

Nora Hendrix is Strathcona’s most famous resident. She and her husband Ross met during their time in a Dixieland troupe. They made their way to Vancouver and settled here in 1911.

Nora was one of the founders of the Fountain Chapel, Vancouver’s first Black Methodist church. She was also a leader in community fundraising and activism.

View of the Fountain Chapel from the outside — *The Fountain Chapel is now a private home*

Although Jimi Hendrix lived in Seattle, he often visited his grandparents. He even attended a local West End elementary school for a short time. I’m sure he was a regular at the Fountain Chapel and showed off his musical talent at Vie’s.

The author Catherine Driver smiling for a selfie on a public garden — *Once viewed as a slum, Strathcona is now full of cute public gardens*

In the 1950s, Strathcona was considered a ‘slum,’ and neighbourhood infrastructure was neglected by the city. In the 1960s, the city government had a plan for a large freeway project which called for the demolition of much of the East End of Vancouver.

Protests raged, and the project was halted. But not before the construction of two viaducts demolished Hogan’s Alley and displaced its residents.

View of a Viaducts — *These ugly viaducts displaced a vibrant community*

Today, community organizations are working hard to keep the legacy of Hogan’s Alley alive. The area is undergoing a major regeneration. These groups are working tirelessly to incorporate the spirit of this displaced community into the new vision for the neighbourhood.

The Italians also had a strong presence in Strathcona. Like many others, they came here seeking work and a fresh start in the late 1800s.

The community grew to the point where they petitioned the Catholic Diocese for a church. And in 1905, the Church of the Sacred Heart opened. The original was destroyed by fire in 1949, but the rebuilt church still stands today.

The Italians of the early 20th century were some of Vancouver’s most creative entrepreneurs. They opened several businesses, many of which, unsurprisingly, revolved around food. And luckily, many of those businesses are still thriving.

View of the Benny’s Market from the outside — *Benny’s Market, one of Vancouver’s oldest family-run businesses*

Benny’s Market is one of the city’s oldest family-run businesses. Opened in 1917, it was here where the community came together.

Today, you can still find all your Italian, Spanish and Portuguese favorites here. Bosa Foods and Tosi & Company are other famous Vancouver businesses that had humble beginnings in Strathcona.

During WWII, the lives of Strathcona’s Italian community were disrupted as many were sent to internment camps in different parts of Canada. The Japanese, who lived a few blocks away, faced the same fate.

After the war, the Italians returned and the community outgrew Strathcona. They moved east to the Commercial Drive area and revitalized that neighbourhood.

Today, “The Drive” is still known as Little Italy and is one of the best places in Vancouver to eat and shop. In early 2024, Commercial Drive was ranked the 5th Coolest Street by Time Out. [Source]

The Strathcona’s Former Synagogue building from the outside — *Strathcona’s former synagogue has been converted to housing*

As with others from around the world, the gold rush also brought Jewish people to British Columbia.

As Vancouver grew and expanded, Jewish businessmen flocked here to open up shops and hotels in what’s known today as Gastown. They were also instrumental in establishing Vancouver’s early transportation and healthcare infrastructure.

A blue marker signpost that tells Jewish stories — *Blue markers share Jewish stories*

Over half of the Jews in Vancouver lived in Strathcona. The Synagogue and Vancouver Hebrew School were the first Jewish institutions in the neighbourhood, and the synagogue was the beating heart of the community.

Family, social welfare, and activism were important to Strathcona’s Jewish women. Groups formed to support immigrants, fight for the rights of women and children, and assist economically disadvantaged community members.

Strathcona’s Jewish community has a long and storied legacy in Vancouver. We have them to thank for many of the things that make our city great today.

History Through Art – murals, mosaics, and annual festivals

Strathcona’s architecture is stunning, but be sure to look down! One of my favourite things to do in this neighbourhood is going on a mosaic treasure hunt.

In 2001, the Footprints Community Art Project was created to commemorate important historical, social, and cultural moments in the area.

A mosaic about the Militant Mothers of Raymur — *This mosaic tells the story of the Militant Mothers of Raymur*

There are 31 mosaics embedded in the sidewalks of Downtown, Gastown, Chinatown, Strathcona, and the Downtown Eastside. Each tells the tale of something important that happened on or near the spot where the mosaic is placed.

Strathcona has also become famous for its murals. Local artists have brightened up the old buildings with colourful works that tell the stories of the community, both past and present.

A colorful mural on a building — *This mural screams “Vancouver”*

Some of them speak to the neighbourhood’s challenges while others are celebratory and hopeful. All are beautiful and thought-provoking.

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Modern Strathcona – a gem of community and creativity

The Union Market from the outside — *Quaint cafes like Union Market are dotted around the neighbourhood*

Like most neighbourhoods in Vancouver, money has moved into Strathcona and the area has become gentrified. But a tight-knit community and activist spirit remain.

Many of the buildings have been given a facelift but still retain their colourful and historic charm. Independent cafés and breweries are dotted around the neighbourhood. Quirky nooks and crannies are everywhere. And Strathcona remains a hub for artists and community festivals.

The author Catherine Driver at the Paneficio Studios — *Art at Paneficio Studios*

An Off-the-wall creations on a tree — *Off-the-wall creations are everywhere!*

Channel your creativity and mix with the locals at the Powell Street Festival, Eastside! Arts Festival, and the Eastside Culture Crawl. Make the hardest decision of your life at La Casa Gelato – it serves over 200 flavours!

Relax with a craft beer in the neighbourhood’s numerous breweries. Attend a Travel Lemming Vancouver Meetup – we’re often in the area! Or catch live theatre and dance at the Firehall Arts Centre.

The Bomber Brewing from the outside — *Bomber Brewing serves up amazing craft beer in a fun atmosphere*

One challenge facing Strathcona is its proximity to Canada’s poorest and most notorious area, the Downtown Eastside. This is one of Vancouver’s unsafe areas and should be avoided.

However, Strathcona remains quiet, full of families, and enjoyable to walk around in. You will be safe here. Just stay vigilant and keep to yourself when approaching East Hastings Street, the neighbourhood’s northern border.