I thought my second Camino would be easy. But it was one of the toughest experiences of my life.

I am no stranger to the Camino de Santiago. 

I first walked the Camino Francés in 2017 and have been actively involved in my Camino community in Vancouver ever since. Walking the Francés changed my life profoundly, and I couldn’t wait for an opportunity to tackle one of the other routes. 

In 2022, while I was teaching in Madrid, I spent Semana Santa (Easter Week) in Oviedo, one of my favorite cities! I only had five days there, but I knew I wanted to use one of them to walk the first stage of the Camino Primitivo, from Oviedo to Grado. 

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The weather was a dream for my 26-kilometer walk. There was brilliant sunshine and cool temperatures – perfect walking weather. 

Once I left the city, I traversed the rolling hills, passed through charming villages, walked alongside sparkling creeks, and chatted with the local people. 

It couldn’t have been more perfect. 

Since that day, it has always been at the back of my mind to return to the Camino Primitivo and finish it. 

I did just that in September of 2024. 

What is the Camino Primitivo? 

Although the Camino Francés is by far the most well-known and popular of the Camino routes, the Primitivo is the oldest. It is said that King Alfonso II was the first pilgrim to walk in the 9th Century!

The route begins at the stunning San Salvador Cathedral in Oviedo. In 320 kilometers (roughly 12-14 days of walking), you’ll come face-to-face with the breathtaking cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. 

The Camino Primitivo crosses the lush regions of Asturias and Galicia in northern Spain. These regions are famous for their heart-stopping natural beauty, great food, and wild weather. The Camino Primitivo also earns a badge for being one of the more difficult routes. 

And, after my experience, I can say all of this is true!

Life as a Pilgrim on the Camino Primitivo

I watched a few videos and walked a lot to prepare for my Camino Primitivo. But it didn’t feel nearly as nerve-wracking as my first one. 

Aside from more challenging terrain, I knew how to navigate the waymarkers and what to expect in hostels (known as albergues in Spain). I knew what I needed to pack. Plus, my Spanish was much better. 

Mentally, this Camino was a lot easier. 

Since I had completed the first stage two years prior and was pressed for time, I took the train from Oviedo to Grado and began my Camino from where I left off in 2022. 

It was nice being back in Grado. I remembered how taken I was by its unique and colorful architecture. My legs and feet hurt so much the first time around, so I loved the opportunity to see the town pain-free. 

After a bit of exploring, I checked into my albergue, made up my bunk bed, and settled in. 

The first night of any Camino is always a good time. Everyone is excited. Anticipation and celebration fill the air. My favorite part is sitting around the dinner table, enjoying a meal with those who would become my “Camino family.” I met people that night who I would continue to see all the way to Santiago. 

The next day, I set off on my journey. 

The first few days on the Camino Primitivo were a delight. The sun shone, animals roamed the countryside, and corn fields and apple orchards went on for miles. 

As there were far fewer pilgrims on the Primitivo, I walked alone for my first three days. I loved it.  Although I cursed the uphills, it was peaceful and relaxing, which was what I needed. 

But everything I’d read was correct – the terrain was much harder than the Francés.

This route takes pilgrims up, over, and through the Cantabrian mountains. And the path can be rocky, muddy, or both. So, while the views can’t be beaten, you’re either walking up a mountain or down it. Thank God I had my walking sticks!

Aside from the tougher terrain and fewer pilgrims, the other difference I noticed compared to the Francés was the lack of services. 

The Francés is full of albergues, bars, and restaurants. I never had to walk too far for a cup of coffee or a bocadillo de jamón. However, with the Primitivo, I had to stock up on food and water when I saw it because I never knew where I’d find it next. 

There were many days I walked over 10 kilometers and came across nothing. One day, it was over 25 kilometers. 

But when I did get food, it was fantastic. Asturias is a region known for its delicious cuisine. I ate beautiful salads and hearty meats every day. The portions were huge! Even tortilla de patata, which I don’t particularly love, was great on the Primitivo!

The albergues were also fantastic. I prefer to stay at private ones since they’re a little bit nicer with more amenities. The hosts go out of their way to make every pilgrim feel special and comfortable. After a day of walking, this feels like a luxury. One host helped a friend with a dental emergency. Another helped me with my own crisis. 

On Day 5 in Berducedo, I was sitting with my friend Markus, enjoying great food and conversation at our albergue. All of a sudden, my arm started itching. We’d been walking in a lot of rain that day and there were mosquitos everywhere, so I wasn’t too worried. A few welts began to show up on my arm.  

I waited another day to see what would happen and more showed up, in clusters. 

Because of a past experience with the Francés, I knew what this meant. 

Bed bugs. 

I find bed bugs really distressing. Yes, they’re gross but mostly harmless, and the bites don’t really bother me. It’s not knowing where you got them or if you might be carrying and spreading them that is upsetting. It’s even more worrying that you may bring them home. 

I knew to wash my clothes in hot water and put them through the dryer. That was easy enough. But this time, I worried about my backpack. Were they hiding in there? The last time I got them, it was very hot, so I was able to leave my pack in the sun to kill any that may have snuck in there. This time, it was late in the day and cold. 

I didn’t want the dryer to damage my pack, but I had no other option. Luckily, 30 minutes on high didn’t cause any trouble. 

My lovely hospitalera took care of all of this for me. She was a true Camino angel. And due to a complaint by another pilgrim (right in front of me) that she didn’t want me in her room, my hospitalera gave me 25 euros and sent me off to a private room she booked for me. 

That act of kindness made me cry more than the bed bugs. After the whole ordeal, I was so happy to have a private room.

The bed bugs were stressful and I was worried for the rest of my Camino. They never came back, thankfully. But I did hear that they were rampant on the Camino this time, so I didn’t feel so alone. 

However, this wouldn’t be the end of my challenges. The biggest one had already begun to set in. 

The rain. 

The weather was quite good up until the day I was most looking forward to a route known as The Hospitales. 

This is a route from Borres to Berducedo that travels up and over the mountains and passes by three ancient pilgrim hospitals. It was supposed to be the most breathtaking day, and I could not wait. 

We had experienced a huge storm the night before. And the rain continued the next day for the Hospitales. The climb was steep and really tough and we were socked in by thick fog. The rain came and went, sometimes quite heavy, but the fog never fully went away. 

Although the fog created a magical ambiance, it blocked the sweeping alpine scenery. And that was really disappointing. 

Despite the bad conditions, the day was still rewarding. We certainly made the best of it and enjoyed what we could see. 

Given the bad weather and the fact that there was no food, water, or shelter for 25 kilometers, the pilgrim family stuck together and made sure everyone was okay. And that is the spirit of the Camino. 

I was expecting better weather during September, but the rain would never fully move on for the remainder of my Camino. 

Lugo: The Day I Almost Quit My Camino

Quitting a Camino is something that I never thought would cross my mind.  

But in the middle of my journey, the Primitivo almost broke me. My day from O Cadavo to Lugo was one of the worst. 

We had been plagued by the relentless rain and fog for a few days after the Hospitales. And it was at the point where being soaked through and not being able to see anything wasn’t enjoyable. It felt like the days were becoming a slog, and the aim was just to get done as quickly as possible.

That wasn’t what I was there for. 

The already challenging terrain was made even more difficult in the soggy conditions. Plus, I came down with a cold. 

From O Cadavo to Lugo is a whopping 30 kilometers. After a couple of those days on my Francés, I’d vowed never again. But here I was.  

Due to my time constraints, I couldn’t break up this stage like my friends did. So I bid adios to them at 15 kilometers and continued on my way for the second half. 

The weather was dreary, like the typical Vancouver days I’m used to, but at least it stayed dry. I kept checking the skies and my weather app and believed I would make it to Lugo unscathed. 

St. James had other plans for me though. 

I had arrived at the outskirts of Lugo and the end was in sight. In about an hour, I’d be cozy in my hotel. But with about 5 kilometers left to go, the skies opened up.  

Now, I consider myself a rain professional. I am from Vancouver, after all. But this was rain I’d never quite experienced. Well, I have experienced it, I just wasn’t walking endless kilometers in it without an umbrella. 

I was wearing my poncho, but I had forgotten my backpack cover at an albergue a few towns back. Not that it mattered because nothing was going to save me that day. 

The hike into Lugo was tough. The city sits atop a very steep hill. And there is a long walk through the suburbs, where the steep hill begins before you reach the center. 

After what seemed like forever, I reached the part of the city where I needed to be. My hotel and a warm shower weren’t far away. I could do this. 

The waymarkers weren’t going to take me to my hotel, so I took out my phone and pulled up Google Maps. The thing about Lugo, though, is its streets twist, turn, and cut off, which throws off the GPS. 

So, for an additional hour, I walked around, in the pouring rain, trying to find my hotel. My phone was soaked and not working well, and my battery was dying fast. 

The locals were also trying to escape the deluge, so few people were around. Eventually, I found one who could point me in the direction of the Old Town, where I knew my hotel would be near. And I was at last able to find it with about 6% left of my battery. 

Although it was the happiest moment of my life, I broke down in tears. 

Both me and my backpack were completely waterlogged. But thanks to the bed bug situation a few days prior, everything was in plastic bags inside my pack. So at least I had dry pajamas to last me until I could hit the laundromat the next day. 

The bad weather had taken its toll by that point. I was disappointed I couldn’t fully see and savor the beautiful surroundings I went there for. Nor could I simply enjoy walking – I had to mind every step. 

When talking to my parents that night, I said I’d check the weather and if there was a drop of rain in the forecast, I was just going to take the train back to sunny Madrid. 

According to the apps, I was in the clear and good to go. The blue skies returned for my rest day in Lugo and I thoroughly enjoyed that wonderful city! And then I continued on to Santiago in the sunshine… mostly. 

The thing about Galician weather is that it is similar to Vancouver weather. And the forecast cannot be trusted. So, I was met with more unexpected downpours on my last day of walking and during my time in Santiago. 

Although I was unhappy about that, the in-between days were glorious. And I was thrilled to finally reach that cathedral! 

Returning to the Camino Francés 

After Lugo, the Camino Primitivo joins with the Francés, in the town of Melide. Immediately upon entering, I noticed a change in the vibe. 

Many pilgrims complain about this part of the Camino Francés because, from Sarria, it gets very, very busy. 

In order to earn a Compostela, you must walk the last 100 kilometers. So many choose to only do that for their Francés. This means, from Sarria to Santiago, the number of pilgrims swell and it’s not always pleasant. 

But I loved it. 

My last day on the Primitivo was incredible and I was excited to meet up with the Francés. It felt like I was going home. 

I had one last mountain to climb and a walk along a vast, open expanse full of windmills. There was a beautiful breeze, the air was fresh and I could see for miles. This is what I imagined the Hospitales would have been like in the sunshine. 

I reached Melide and the celebrations were in full force. This was not the quiet, isolated Camino I had just left. Melide was full of pilgrims, all recapping their day, making friends, and seeking out the best place for pulpo (octopus), which the town is famous for. 

I sat back in the square, with my hot dog and fries (I don’t like octopus), and laughed at the new and fresh “Sarria Starters” partying it up on their Day 4. And I felt for the ones hobbling around in pain, just like I was. I knew they had been on the Camino for over a month, excited to finish but sad to be on the last leg of their journey. 

Although I had walked these last three days seven years ago, I remembered nothing other than one bar decorated with beer bottles. I think by the time I got here on my Francés, I was so tired that everything looked the same. So, I was happy to see it with fresh eyes. 

The terrain eased off and, aside from a little bit of forest walking, it was mainly flat and on paved paths. This was the break my body needed because my knees had started to give me a lot of trouble. 

There were bars every couple of kilometers. So, unlike the Primitivo, a coffee or snack was never far away. And they were packed with pilgrims, which meant plenty of people to talk to. It was so much fun!

It also felt like I was actually on the Camino.

It’s often said that there is a commercialization of the Camino and it’s become like a “Disneyland.” There is truth in that and I feel the same way. 

But I was also happy to see all of the little touches that make the Camino so special to me, those I was searching for on the Primitivo. I enjoyed seeing the inspiring graffiti, the pilgrim sculptures, mementos left by past pilgrims, and colorful shells everywhere. 

I’ve always said I’d like to do the Francés again and this certainly renewed my desire. 

What the Camino Primitivo Taught Me

Much like my Camino Francés, I was not hit with any profound, life-changing revelations on the Primitivo. But I’m sure the lessons and opportunities will unfold in the weeks and months to come and the thought of that excites me. 

However, the Camino Primitivo showed me how much I am physically capable of doing, especially as someone who hates uphill walking. I found 12 days on this one much harder than 37 days on the other. 

I am also proud of my perseverance and determination when faced with one challenge after the other. And now that I’m warm and dry again, I can look back and say that I’m very happy I didn’t quit. 

The other thing I learned was the value of speaking a local language. While you certainly do not need to know Spanish to have a great experience on the Camino, speaking a little makes the journey so much more rewarding. 

I spoke no Spanish on my Francés, but today I’m at an intermediate level. It was really nice to be able to speak to the local people and learn about their lives. 

I could see how they responded differently to me this time around. They were friendlier and more open. It also meant a lot that I could help out my fellow pilgrims with translating and communicating. 

While certainly not expected on the Camino, a little Spanish goes a long way. 

Would I Recommend the Camino Primitivo?

Mentally, I already knew what to expect from the Camino, so that part was easy. But the Camino Primitivo pushed me physically in ways I did not think were possible. My knees are still in recovery!

The terrain was very challenging, but not impossible in the sunshine. It was the amount of rain and fog we received that made it difficult and disappointing for me. 

However, this is a route I would wholeheartedly recommend to anyone who has experience on the Camino or who has done big hikes before. It’s absolutely gorgeous and will certainly give you a challenge if you’re seeking one!

In fact, despite everything that was thrown my way, I’d love to do it again. 

But only in the summer. 

Buen Camino!

👉 You Might Also Like: I couldn’t travel to Spain this year, so I walked a Canadian Camino instead.

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Thanks for reading! Up next, check out Laura’s piece on her experience doing three of New Zealand’s Great Walks if you need another dose of wanderlust!