Why I didn’t feel safe in Morocco as a woman

I have always loved the art, history, and culture of the Islamic world. I began thinking about a trip to Morocco over a decade ago. In my mind, it was the perfect place to introduce myself to the Middle East. 

Strolling through the narrow, winding streets of the old Medinas, indulging in tagines and couscous, and hearing the mystical call to prayer echoing through the air always held a certain romance in my mind.

Unfortunately, my Morocco plans were thwarted when I had the opportunity to take a tour of Turkey. That would come first. And my Moroccan adventure would have to wait. 

My travels in Turkey and Iran gave me beautiful insights into the Middle East. 

With a culture so different from mine, I wasn’t sure what to expect of Turkey. 

I did a lot of research beforehand about Turkish customs, but I still felt quite nervous as I touched down in Istanbul. Like many North Americans, I was only ever exposed to what the news wanted me to see. 

But I immediately fell in love with Turkey. The history and architecture captivated me. The food was fantastic. And the people were so kind. 

It didn’t take long to settle into the groove of the country. And it wasn’t nearly as intimidating as I thought it would be. I felt safe in Turkey, and I’ve since been back twice as a solo traveler. 

I also had the privilege of joining an exceptional tour of Iran. As I anticipated, every stereotype I heard about that country was smashed to pieces. 

I have never encountered such kind people, which made me feel very safe. I wouldn’t worry about traveling there alone, which I hope to be able to do someday. 

My experience in Morocco began with many warnings, uneasy feelings, and witnessing a crime.  

Although my travels to Turkey and Iran bumped Morocco further down my list for a few years, I still hadn’t forgotten about it. Lots of people I know have traveled there and sing its praises. And, because I was living in Spain for a year, I would not let the opportunity to visit Morocco pass me by. 

My friend was coming to visit and she was also keen to take a trip to Morocco. But, although we would be together, we both felt most comfortable going with a group. 

So, we joined a tour with Intrepid Travel. Taking this tour was a great decision and an experience I highly recommend. 

We were lucky to be led by our amazing guide, Lahcen. Our fellow tour mates were a joy to travel with, and we shared many incredible experiences that I will treasure forever. But that’s for another time. 

For now, it’s about safety. 

Before I left Spain, my co-worker, who was born in Morocco, armed me with useful phrases that would ward off unwanted attention. 

She also said, “Do not go anywhere alone. Even if you’re just going ‘over there’ for a second, go together.” 

Because I’m no stranger to Islamic countries, I knew how to be smart and safe. I planned to conduct myself the same way I did in Turkey and Iran. Because of this, I expected Morocco to feel the same as Turkey and Iran.

It didn’t. 

From the moment we arrived, Morocco felt very different to me. It had an intense, aggressive energy. 

Because of the flight schedule from Madrid, we had to get to Casablanca the day before our tour started. Upon arrival, something about the city felt frenetic and uncomfortable. The man at our hotel reception warned us to guard our phones whenever we went out.  

I thought, “What am I doing here?” because the warnings didn’t seem to stop.

That evening, grateful for and heeding the endless stream of advice we’d been given, we booked a walking tour with a female guide to take us around Casablanca. 

With our day packs firmly clenched in front of us, she led us around corners of the city that we would never have seen on our own. And she gave us a fascinating insight into her hometown.

As the night went on, I started to feel better. I loved getting to see so many lovely parts of the city.

The Medina was incredible, and I learned the mayor of Casablanca is a woman! The sun was shining. All of Casablanca were out in the city’s parks and plazas. It was beautiful. 

My newfound comfort would be short-lived, however. 

Toward the end of our tour, we were on our way to see the breathtaking Hassan II mosque. We were in one of Casablanca’s high-end neighbourhoods, so maybe that lowered our guard. 

Out of nowhere, our group was blindsided by two men on a motorbike. They rode up onto the wide sidewalk alongside us – we didn’t even hear them coming. They grabbed the phone of one of the women in our group and clipped my friend’s ankle as they sped off. 

Our tour mate’s phone was hanging on a lanyard, resting at her side, unfortunately making her the perfect target for that kind of robbery. I felt awful for her. 

This left us shaken and gave us an unsettling experience to kick off our trip to Morocco. 

I know things like this can happen anywhere. I have been the victim of property crime more than once at home in Vancouver. So, I was certainly not going to judge Morocco based on this one incident. But it didn’t help to shake off my initial, disconcerting feeling. 

We met our Intrepid group the next evening after spending an incredible day visiting the mosque and having lunch at La Sqala. Day 2 was much better, but we were relieved to be on our tour. 

We went on to have a wonderful trip, visiting many spectacular places around the country. We didn’t experience any more unfortunate events, thankfully.

While I enjoyed my time in Morocco and saw stunning sights and breathtaking scenery, I returned to Spain feeling mentally exhausted, despite being on a group tour. 

I felt on guard constantly, not only for my possessions but for my personal safety in what is a very in-your-face, male-dominated country. 

Our tour itinerary included a fair bit of free time, the only thing that worried me at every new stop. Normally, I welcome a lot of time to aimlessly wander, take photographs, and browse in the local shops. But not in Morocco. 

Even as two women walking together during the day, we were constantly approached by men, on the receiving end of unwanted stares and attention, and there were relentless attempts to engage us and rip us off. Feeling so nervous and guarded all the time was tiring. 

The other women on our tour seemed to have an easier time. At the end of each day, they would regale us with stories of everything they did during their free time.

In Tangier, my friend and I attempted to explore the Medina but ended up feeling so uncomfortable by the men in the streets, that we just hunkered down with our fruit juice in a busy restaurant until it was time to meet back with the group. 

So, why was our experience so different from the other women we were with? Well, they were all traveling with men.

So, with all this said, is Morocco a safe place for women to travel, especially alone? 

I will scream the benefits of solo female travel from the rooftops. But when it comes to Morocco, I feel differently. I don’t think Morocco is somewhere I would go alone. Even with a female friend, I found it to be a challenging and intimidating place. 

If a friend or family member asked my opinion, I would tell them to visit Morocco, it’s wonderful. But take a group tour that keeps you very busy. Or go with a man.  

While Morocco is said to be a bit more “flexible” towards foreign women, I would still recommend exercising a high degree of caution to stay safe and have the best experience you can. 

It is possible to navigate Morocco safely and have a great time. Here are some tips that worked for me.  

#1 – Always be on guard

As that first night in Casablanca taught me, be vigilant with everything from minding your possessions to when you cross the street — the traffic is insane in the larger cities!

I know it’s bulky, uncomfortable, and unfashionable, but keep your money, credit cards, and important documentation in a money belt and wear it underneath your clothing. 

Carry your backpack in front, only with what you need for the day. Secure it safely when you sit down for meals. Don’t let anything out of your sight.

While violent crime is said to be rare in Morocco, theft and petty crime are rampant. Trust no one, not even the cute children. Always assume that a nearby thief is watching you, getting ready to pounce. 

#2 – Get comfortable with being “rude”

It has been ingrained in every woman to be nice and polite to everyone. In Morocco, you will need to be assertive. 

Engaging with local men because you feel obligated to be courteous will, at best, trap you in lengthy, unwanted conversation and, at worst…well, I don’t want to think about that. 

I don’t like to be rude to people, especially when I am a guest in their country. But I also don’t like men approaching me, even if it’s just to pull in business for their restaurant. Don’t be afraid to ignore them and keep walking. Be stern with them if they persist.

#3 – Dress appropriately

The same expectations of dress aren’t imposed on foreign women. But out of respect for the local culture, make sure you’re covered up. 

Morocco may be a stone’s throw from Spain, but it is not Spain. The religious and cultural norms are very different. They require modest and conservative dress.

#4 – Wear a fake wedding ring

I have always found that a faux wedding ring helps deter unwanted male attention. Popping a ring on your finger can save a lot of hassle. Men in Morocco seem to have more respect and reverence for married women. Unfortunately, I forgot my bling on this trip. 

#5 – Seek out local women

When in doubt, mimic the local women. Watch how they shop, walk through the streets, and engage in public. Follow closely behind them to safely cross busy roads. And stop them if you are lost or need some help. 

If it is within your control, take tours with female guides and support the growth of women in guiding. Their country needs them.

#6 – Don’t go out alone at night

Nothing beats a yummy pastilla for dinner or watching the sun go down in a hilltop village. But unless you have a group or someone else to go with, I advise against roaming the streets of Morocco alone after dark. You can eat at your hotel and see the sunset somewhere else. Don’t put yourself at risk.

#7 – Note the license plates and driver identification if you use taxis

We had a lot of fun with the taxi drivers in Casablanca. Most were quite entertaining, one tried to rip us off, and all of them took us for a wild ride through the crazy traffic. But I would be nervous to get into a taxi alone in Morocco. 

If you’re going to take a taxi, only use licensed ones. Make sure that the driver turns on the meter. Always note the taxi’s license plate and any displayed identification in case of anything. Don’t be afraid to move on if your intuition tells you something is amiss. 

#8 – Stick to the smaller towns and cities

I felt very uneasy in Casablanca, Marrakech, and Tangier’s Medina. But I fell in love with and felt much more comfortable in Rabat, Fes and the smaller towns we visited, like Chefchaouen and Moulay Idriss.  

Create an itinerary or take a tour that offers more time in the smaller places. They are so much more charming anyway.

***

I would never say that women should avoid Morocco. But for the first time in all my travels, it was the country I felt most unsafe in. And I wasn’t expecting that.

But while I found Morocco sometimes difficult and unsettling, I also had so many wonderful moments and came to love so much about it. For me, these things co-exist when I think about my time there.

I’m glad I visited Morocco, and I would go back. I came away with enriching experiences, reveled in centuries of history, and, most importantly, met lovely, welcoming people who taught me so much. 

This is what I will choose to remember.

What has been your experience traveling through Morocco? Leave a comment to let me know! 

Want another perspective on traveling solo as a woman? Check out Betty’s article on what she wishes she’d known before traveling solo through Europe.