The untold history of Puerto Rico

A friend once asked me why I liked history so much. After I momentarily thought about why ruins, textbooks, and historical photographs excited me so much, I answered: “It reminds me how small and insignificant we are as humans.”

That is precisely why I loved the history class I took while getting certified as a Puerto Rico tourist guide. But, while I’ve learned a lot about Puerto Rico’s history, I couldn’t help but notice that much of Puerto Rico’s history is hardly talked about.

With that came the realization that if even I, as a local, didn’t know these historical events, foreigners and tourists would never hear of them either. 

As I writer and Puerto Rico lover, I consider some of these events and characters too great not to share! So, here are some important glimpses of Puerto Rico’s history that you might never hear on a walking tour through San Juan, but you’ll love learning about.

Protests & Battles: Puerto Ricans Fought for Justice, Rights, and Freedom for Many Years

Despite the infamous saying, “ay bendito,” which has characterized Puerto Ricans’ laid-back attitude, it is worth seeing when we take over the streets with protests and fight back against injustice, invasions, or a corrupted government. 

These are some memorable moments:

Summer of 2019

One of the most recent and powerful events in Puerto Rico, the Summer of 2019, was a series of protests in San Juan that ended in the resignation of the archipelago’s then-governor, Ricardo Roselló.

The protests started in response to a telegram chat between the governor and other political leaders.

The multi-page chat included racist, fat-phobic, classist, and sexist comments. But, what perhaps made Puerto Ricans flood the streets of the capital, were the mocking comments about the death toll and the consequences of Hurricane Maria, which had destroyed the island back in 2017.

For over ten days, Puerto Ricans took over Calle Fortaleza and other areas of San Juan with flags, music, and even guillotines.

I participated in these protests for multiple days, and I still remember how people of all ages and political beliefs carried Puerto Rico’s flag while marching through the PR-22 highway.

The Battle of Asomante

The Battle of Asomante, which took place in the mountains of Aibonito in 1898, is known as the last battle of the Spanish-American War in Puerto Rico. The Spanish troops that defended Puerto Rico included both Spaniards and criollos (as Puerto Ricans were known then).

The battle lasted for a few hours, with Spanish troops holding off the enemy with canons.

Although the American troops retreated and the Spaniards won the battle, Spain later signed a treaty, renouncing its sovereignty over the territories of Cuba, Puerto Rico, and the Philippines, and handing them over to the United States.

You can still visit the trenches in Aibonito, where a monument commemorates the event.

The Taíno Rebellion of 1511

Easily one of the most omitted events of Puerto Rico’s history is the 1511 Taíno rebellion, which included not one but numerous battles between the Spaniards and the indigenous inhabitants of Borikén.

Agüeybana II, also known as “El Bravo,” united with other caciques (Taíno leaders) and led battles against conquerors attacking the Spanish settlement known as Villa de Sotomayor, after the death of Diego Salcedo.

The first battle, known as Grito de Coayuco, took place in January of 1511. A series of conflicts continued throughout the 16th century. 

For a long time, the myth that Agüeybana II was killed in the Battle of Yahueca that same year was taught in schools. But in truth, he led the resistance for years after, and the indigenous inhabitants continued to resist colonization for almost twenty years.

You can find a monument to Agüeybana II in Ponce.

Protests against the US Marines in Vieques

The US Marines started displacing civilians in Vieques in 1940, taking over 26,000 out of the 33,000 acres of the small island off the east coast of Puerto Rico.

The occupation generated civilian unrest and continuous demonstrations. Still, it was the death of civilian David Sanes Rodríguez in 1999, during a bombing drill, that sparked the civilian movement that would end with the exit of the US Marines from Vieques.

In 2003, the US Marines left Vieques in what was considered a victory for Puerto Ricans and Viequenses, sparking celebrations all over the archipelago.

Visit El Fortín Conde de Mirasol Museum in Vieques to see collections of military artifacts found on the island and its surrounding waters.

The 1797 British attack 

Puerto Rico suffered many attacks during its formation. One of the most infamous was the attack led by the British General Abercromby, which has a legend behind it.

It’s said that the general was preparing to siege San Juan with over 50 vessels but was deterred by a procession that took place at night over the walls in San Juan. When he saw the lights and heard the crowd, he believed reinforcements had arrived on the island, so he retreated.

But in truth, the Militia of the Morenos of Cangrejos, a Black military group, fought hand-to-hand with the British troops in San Mateo de Cangrejos (today Santurce) and played an important role in holding back and deterring Abercromby’s troops.

Today, La Rogativa in Old San Juan commemorates this event.

The Rio Piedras Massacre

Before the Ponce Massacre, the Río Piedras Massacre took place in San Juan in 1935. The colonial police murdered four men and injured an additional one, all members of the Nationalist Party of Puerto Rico, who were traveling in a car.

This was the result of an agenda by the newly designated military governor Blanton Winship and Elisha Francis Riggs, the chief of police, to eradicate the insurgence of the Puerto Rican Nationalist Party. The killers never went to trial.

Although there isn’t a monument or a museum, you can catch a commemoration of the event on October 24th in Río Piedras.

The Ponce Massacre

The Ponce Massacre refers to a massacre that took place on March 21, 1937, during a peaceful parade that both commemorated the abolition of slavery and served as a protest against the illegal detention of Pedro Albizu Campos.

The group had previously requested permission for the event, but Governor Blanton C. Winship revoked it minutes before the march.

At around 3 pm, local police opened fire on fellow Puerto Ricans, ambushing the unarmed group and using multiple weapons, tear gas, and batons. There were over 150 injured and 19 dead.

Although the event had a museum in Ponce, known as the Ponce Massacre Museum, it was affected by the 2020 earthquakes and has not been reopened five years later. Still, you’ll find a mural in Calle Aurora in Ponce that honors Albizu and commemorates the massacre.

El Grito de Jayuya

While El Grito de Lares is one of the most famous historical events in the name of Puerto Rico’s independence, El Grito de Jayuya was equally important. This Nationalist Party insurrection took place on October 30, 1950. It was an uprising against the US government.

Although short-lived, the event occurred in multiple towns besides Jayuya and was the first time the current Puerto Rican flag was raised. Museo de los Mártires in Jayuya covers part of this history.

Important (and Often Unheard of) Characters of Puerto Rican History

Puerto Rico is the birthplace of internationally known figures like Marc Anthony and Benicio del Toro, but many other characters played important roles in Puerto Rico’s history and aren’t mentioned enough in textbooks, either for political reasons, race, or ignorance.

Keeping their memory alive is keeping Puerto Rico’s history alive. During my tourism course, I was particularly interested in a few names.

Jose Celso Barbosa

José Celso Barbosa was a Puerto Rican doctor, politician, and journalist. He was also known for promoting and boosting the cooperative movement with the foundation of El Ahorro Colectivo, the first cooperative on the island.

Considered the father of the statehood movement in Puerto Rico, he was the founder of Puerto Rico’s Republican Party in 1899.

He believed Puerto Rico could enjoy more economic and social freedom if it became a state. His house, Casa Barbosa, is one of Bayamón’s best attractions, where you’ll find original furniture, newspapers, and artifacts that belonged to Barbosa.

Miguel Enriquez

One of the many privateers of the Spanish Empire, Miguel Enriquez’s history is peculiar. He became one of the wealthiest figures in the Caribbean in the early 18th century despite being a mulatto and born in poverty.

The Spanish Empire hired Enriquez to be a corsair, and he captured contraband ships, merchants, and pirates.

He received important titles and mingled with high-society aristocrats. His fleet defended the Spanish empire and earned many victories during battles. However, he later fell from the government’s grace and died in poverty.

The ruins of Ermita de la Candelaria in Toa Baja, which Enriquez owned, still stand.

Blanca Canales

Historical female figures are less heard of than their male counterparts, but in truth, there are plenty of important female figures in Puerto Rico’s history, like Blanca Canales.

Born in 1906, she was an educator and leader in the Puerto Rican Nationalist Party, specifically Las Hijas de la Libertad, the female branch of the group.

She also participated and led groups in the Nationalist uprisings of 1950, known as El Grito de Jayuya, during which Puerto Rico was declared The Republic of Puerto Rico for three days.

Nowadays, you can visit Casa Canales in Jayuya, which was the home of the Canales family.

Pedro Albizu Campos

Leader of Puerto Rico’s Nationalist Party, Pedro Albizu Campos vouched for Puerto Ricans’ rights and led the nation’s independence movement.

He was a lawyer, a politician, and a social activist. He was the first Puerto Rican Harvard graduate. Albizu organized multiple rallies, protests, and attacks in favor of Puerto Rico’s independence, including El Grito de Jayuya.

You can admire multiple murals of Albizu throughout the island, including in Ponce, Lares, and Santurce. You can also visit his old residency in Old San Juan, which nowadays is a restaurant known as El Mezzanine.

Antonio de los Reyes Correa

Antonio de los Reyes Correa was a captain under the Spanish Empire militia who successfully repelled a British attack in 1702 with only 30 men from the Puerto Rican militia.

Also known as Capitán Correa, the leader, together with the military group, fought back the British troops with only spears and machetes until the troops retreated, resulting in Correa being hailed as a hero.

Visit the town of Arecibo and catch the recreation of the attack in August.

Ramón Emeterio Betances

Known for his social work, Ramón Emeterio Betances was a doctor who worked directly with Puerto Rico’s most vulnerable communities, including enslaved people. 

Together with Segundo Ruiz Belviz, he bought the enslaved people and set them free in an effort to abolish slavery on the island. He helped plan the infamous Grito de Lares, and for his revolutionary ideals, often expressed in his writings, he is named “father of the homeland” (Padre de la Patria).

I personally love his portrait exhibited in the Caguas Art Museum, but you can also learn more about his life in Museo de los Mártires in Jayuya.

The Lesser-Known Side of Puerto Rico’s History

Both Puerto Rico’s colonization and hurricane season have been responsible for some of the darkest episodes of the nation’s history. While these might not be my favorite history lessons, they are important to understand today’s social context.

Hurricane Maria caused thousands of deaths

Puerto Rico has a yearly hurricane season from June to November, which means it’s not rare for hurricanes to affect the archipelago. Hurricane Maria in 2017 was the most destructive hurricane in decades.

People in Puerto Rico spent over six months without power and potable water. The lack of services, chaos, and the absence of government response led to over 4,000 deaths in the long run.

The lines at supermarkets, banks, gas stations, and ice factories extended as far as the eye could see, and a curfew was imposed to maintain order. 

This is by far one of the most significant events in Puerto Rico’s modern history, marking a before and after in the life of many Puerto Ricans.

Visit El Portal Visitor Center in El Yunque to appreciate the transformation of the rainforest with the hurricane or watch this National Geographic documentary to learn about the recuperation efforts.

Hundreds of women were sterilized without consent

During the 20th century, many experiments and operations took place in Puerto Rico, sterilizing hundreds of women without consent [source]. In 1937, Governor Blanton Winship approved Law 136, which made sterilization legal in Puerto Rico. The law resulted in eugenics-based sterilization for several decades [source].

Many women were operated on without knowledge of the permanent status of the procedure. While numbers vary, it is estimated that by the 1950s, around one-fifth of women underwent the procedure [source]. The island even had a Eugenics Board. Puerto Rican women were also subject to clinical trials and experiments on birth-control pills and other contraceptive methods without full disclosure of their side effects or clinical status [source].

Ironically, now Puerto Rico has a serious issue of underpopulation, which makes you wonder if the final goal was a Puerto Rico without Puerto Ricans. While it’s extremely unusual to find any information about this in historical books, you can watch the documentary La Operación.

Operation Bootstrap changed Puerto Rico’s economy

Operation Bootstrap refers to a series of projects that started in 1947 to transform Puerto Rico’s economy from an agricultural to an industrial one.

The project, known in Spanish as Operación Manos a La Obra, was the first industrialization project in a “third world” economy and later served as an example for other countries. [source]

The projects had both positive and negative impacts, with Puerto Rico losing most of its agriculture-based economy and self-sufficiency, which would eventually lead the archipelago to import over 80 percent of its food. [source]

And yet, a trip through PR-52 on the south coast is enough to see hundreds of acres of fields used to exclusively export outside Puerto Rico. Moreover, a large part of Puerto Rico’s farmable land is nowadays owned by foreign companies and individuals.

La Carretera Central was built

Although many drivers prefer the more modern (and far less curvy) PR-52 highway to the “old route,” the construction of La Carretera Central, which extended between the 1840s and 1880s, and was acknowledged as one of the best roads in the western hemisphere. [source]

The route was built mostly by underpaid workers and prisoners, including a large population of Chinese immigrants who arrived in Puerto Rico. [source]

The building of the road cost lives and injured many, especially the section through the mountainous region, between Cayey, Aibonito, and Coamo.

Nowadays, most parts of the road are included in the National Register of Historic Places, and only the most skilled drivers dare to drive through it. [source]

Along the road, you can find multiple “casillas de camineros” (small masonry structures) where workers in charge of maintaining this road lived. You can easily access one of them in Ponce.

A Final Word

Puerto Rico’s history is filled with fascinating events and characters that sadly aren’t taught about enough, neither to locals nor tourists. I was able to learn about many of them through my tourism course, but I know I still have a long way to go when it comes to my small archipelago’s history. 

Sadly, one has to deep-dive and conduct exhaustive research to uncover it. Hopefully, I’ve shared one or two things you didn’t know about Puerto Rico, and this text has sparked your interest and left you craving more!

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Thank you for reading! Up next, check out my article about what Puerto Rico’s tourism industry could learn from Peru.