As a seafood hater, here’s what it was like dining out in Japan

All you fishy fanatics better cut me a break on this one. I’ll come right out and say it – I hate seafood.

I rarely had opportunities to try great-quality seafood growing up in a landlocked state. However, whenever I did branch out and give it a go in Arizona, I always ended up disgusted and disappointed.

Something about that fishy smell and rubbery texture gives me immediate nausea.

To further prove my point, just last month I put on a brave face and ordered a poke bowl in Costa Rica at an oceanside restaurant with my seafood-loving friends.

Two bites in and I was running for the toilet to puke out my guts.

No other category of food has ever warranted such a reaction from me.

I know I sound so dramatic, and I wish I weren’t such a wimp about it.

I swear I’m the least picky eater alive with every other food group.

But for some reason, I have a visceral reaction to the very idea of seafood. Can you tell it’s not my thing?

Arriving in Japan

When I first visited Japan in January 2019, my biggest concern was the food. I’m sure all you seafood lovers are gasping at that sentiment.

People travel from all over the world just to get their hands on authentic Japanese seafood.

But sushi, sashimi, and takoyaki are the bane of my existence. I was not looking forward to a week of dining out.

In typical Betty fashion, I did zero research on non-seafood Japanese dishes. I figured I’d find things as I went and end up happy as an unsteamed clam.

When I arrived, I was completely lost.

The first thing I ate in Japan was street squid.

“But Betty,” you’re saying, “why would the most anti-seafood American eat street squid?”

Peer pressure and an unrealistic level of optimism, that’s why. I thought, hey, maybe my lifetime of disdain will cease to exist and I’ll find it delicious!

I didn’t want to feel left out when my friends decided to go for it, so I reluctantly paid the friendly street vendor and looked quizzically at my skewered baby squids. They seemed so alive that I was sure they’d start flailing their little tentacles at me.

The buildup in my head for eating this tiny squid was equivalent to the nervous anticipation of diving into a freezing lake.

I didn’t want to do it, but I didn’t want to miss out on a memorable experience with my friends. My hesitance was no match to the FOMO.

One bite of squishy, unseasoned mush, and I was done for. I spit out the squid in the bushes next to me within three seconds.

The suction cups on their tentacles grabbed at my lips on their way out.

Great, I thought, my first bite in Japan never even made it to my stomach. This is going to be a fun trip.

From that moment on, I ordered every vegetarian dish I could find.

Soy in every form (edamame, miso soup, shoyu) was my best friend.

Ramen was a delicacy like never before. I tried okonomiyaki in Osaka and rejoiced.

And don’t even get me started on 7-Eleven snacks.

Lost in Translation: Navigating Japanese Menus 

The lack of English in Japan makes ordering the right thing incredibly difficult.

I ordered the wrong meal and swapped with my friends nearly every time we went out to eat.

Sometimes I just gave up, picked the fish off my plate, and ate rice alone. My stomach grumbled for days.

Don’t get me wrong, I tried more fishy plates. But it didn’t matter how recently it was caught or how swanky the restaurant was. I was in one of the most popular seafood-producing countries in the world, and I still couldn’t stomach it.

Everything my friends told me wouldn’t be “fishy” still was!

And it seemed to get worse with each experience.

I spent my final night in Japan at a ryokan in Osaka. A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn featuring floor sleeping mats, onsen spas, and authentic meals. This experience is a must when you visit the country.

All of this sounded incredible to me except for – and I’m sure you’re catching on here – the food.

My friends and I went to dinner that night in a private room surrounded by paper sliding doors and bamboo planters. The space presented a foot-tall dining table and squishy pillows for sitting.

The menus were in Japanese, but we had no means of translation.

We blindly ordered our meals. I pointed to a line on the menu to the server who politely smiled, bowed, and walked away.

Whatever I was served I’d just have to deal with.

I wound up with a plate full of sashimi, noodles covered in scaly fish, and a shot glass of what I think was a raw quail egg. In the spirit of tradition, I tried everything on my plate.

It was horrendous.

I’ve never had fishier food in my life.

No matter how hard I tried, I couldn’t stomach the flavors and textures.

My friends and I cackled at each other’s expressions of horror.

We made sure to at least put a dent in our meals so we didn’t come off rude. I will never forget how hilarious and alarming the experience was.

You can imagine why I went to bed starving that night.

Blame My Genetics

This dramatic aversion to seafood makes me wonder if there’s an inherited trait for my hatred (I’m looking at you, Mom).

It’s so intense that the very thought of seafood makes me gag.

According to a very lax Google search, studies suggest a gene for seafood phobia exists!

If you’re anything like me, don’t worry.

There’s nothing wrong with you for being a seafood hater.

If anything, we’re helping the planet by lessening the global consumption of fish, right? Might I even suggest we are the superior members of society? I digress.

Japan offers endless reasons to visit that supersede its aquaculture. The architecture, nightlife, museums, attractions, rich culture, and natural beauty (hello, Mount Fuji) put it high on my list of must-see destinations.

My Favorite Non-Seafood Dishes in Japan

Don’t let your fear of seafood deter you from the trip of a lifetime. I’ll offer some culinary inspiration. Here are my favorite Japanese dishes that filled me up through my adventures on the islands:

Okonomiyaki

This was my favorite dish I tried for the first time in Osaka. It’s a savory pancake cooked before your eyes on a flat-top stove. I added beef or chicken whenever possible, but it was delicious with just vegetables as well. 

The spicy mayonnaise on top complimented the flavors perfectly. I ate okonomiyaki every single day during my week in Japan.

Ramen

This classic Japanese favorite was easy to find everywhere I went in Japan. From Kobe to Tokyo, I feasted on steaming hot noodles in a hearty broth whenever I got the chance.

It was especially comforting in the cold January weather. If you think you’ve had good ramen in the States (or wherever you live), just wait until you try the real deal in a Japanese hole-in-the-wall. You’ll be forever changed.

7-Eleven Goodies

People treat 7-Eleven like a joke when buying “real” food. It’s quite the opposite in Japan. You can find one on virtually every corner, and the variety of food is astonishing.

In the States, you’ll find fried foods, soda, and candy at this convenience store.

But in Japan, fresh-baked bread, gourmet coffees, instant noodles, sushi, and bao buns line the shelves.

Mochi comes in every flavor. Check out fellow Travel Lemming writer Sky’s top 7-Eleven snacks in Japan for more ideas.

The best part is that it’s cheap! I filled a bag with goodies nearly every day for less than $10. While there are plenty of seafood options to avoid, the non-seafood department at 7-Eleven is admirable. And most stores are open 24 hours. Best convenience store ever!

Teriyaki Chicken

I know you’re thinking this is the lamest, most basic American thing I could order in Japan. But you can’t go wrong with teriyaki sauce.

I enjoyed this classic meal with white rice and steamed vegetables all over Japan.

It was delicious every single time. And if you don’t eat meat, veggies covered in teriyaki sauce are a tasty choice, too.

Vegetarian Bento Boxes

I love the simplicity and aesthetic of a bento box. These Japanese meals are portioned boxes filled with rice or noodles, some form of protein (usually fish, but not for me of course), and assorted vegetables. 

I found a few vegetarian options that were delicious in Kobe and Kyoto. The colorful variety of crunchy veggies, pickled squash, and steamed rice satisfied my hunger without fail.

Return for (Some) Redemption

I returned to Japan this January on a work trip to Narita just outside of Tokyo. Though I only had a 26-hour layover to explore, I had time to give seafood another go.

I went to dinner at a conveyor belt sushi restaurant with a coworker. The experience was a blast, even though I was skeptical of the menu options. I ordered spicy crab rolls. I know that’s a lame order, but it was a step in the right direction.

As the beautifully decorated rolls slid up to me on the belt, I was surprisingly not weirded out by the fishy platter.

The spicy sauce mixed with gobs of wasabi and ginger undoubtedly masked any trace of fishiness, and I finished the meal with great satisfaction. Progress!!

The following morning I enjoyed a delightful breakfast of house-made granola and matcha at a cozy cafe.

I’ve realized that breakfast is the easiest meal for non-seafood options in Japan. Don’t be fooled, though. There are still plenty of fishy breakfast items on every menu.

My final stop was shamefully American – McDonald’s.

But don’t judge me too quickly.

McDonald’s is utterly superior anywhere outside of the United States. I am on a lifelong world tour of McDonald’s because each country offers different menus with a variety of astonishingly good meals. 

My second trip to Japan ended on a delicious note.

👉 Read Next: I went to a random Japanese town I picked out on Google Maps

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I hope my accounts of seafood aversion in Japan didn’t offend too many fish fans out there. Some may feel I missed out on the best cuisine the country has to offer.

However, I feel like I discovered a whole new category of unique and tasty food in Japan.

The challenge of finding non-seafood dishes proved difficult, but I had some amazing meals in my search. Sometimes I struck out, but that’s foodie showbiz, baby.

And who knows?

Maybe one day my taste buds will take a turn and I’ll have a whole world of slimy, smelly foods to try. Until that day, I’ll stick to what I like in Japan and beyond.

What was your experience dining in Japan? Let me know in the comments!

Next up, check out Sky’s piece on the attractions in Japan she thinks are overrated.