Port Townsend is an ideal Washington winter getaway. Here’s why.

I’m convinced it’s impossible to have a bad time when you’re in Port Townsend, Washington. I’ve visited for just two hours, a whole day, and for a weekend — and each time it climbs higher up the list of my favorite small towns in Washington. 

Imagine a charming waterfront town with hundreds of historic and well-preserved Victorian homes. Its bustling commercial district sports quaint shops tucked away in red-brick buildings with fading 19th-century murals on their sides. 

Pocket-sized parks and wooden docks jut out from the main street. They’re the best places to see ferries crossing the Sound or to watch fog and clouds obscure the sun as the waves grow wilder. 

Away from the hustle and bustle of the main street, saucer-eyed deer roam languidly, plopping down to rest in the lawns of residents with homes painted in tasteful greens, blues, and yellows. 

This may sound like a town designed for a cozy TV series, but that’s what it’s like in Port Townsend. It’s part of the reason I love it so much.

So I was aghast when my best friend, Zoe, told me that she’d never been. Unacceptable, was my first thought. I need to show her how lovely it is, was my second.

Like any good Washington town, Port Townsend is a delight in the summer. Most of my prior day trips and weekend getaways from Seattle have been during that season. 

But I wanted to take Zoe as soon as possible. We booked an overnight trip for a quiet day in late December, wondering if it would hold up in the wintertime. As it turns out, it does.

We only had a day to explore but it was enough to convince her to love this town as much as I do. Here’s what we did and why I think a winter visit is perfect.

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Port Townsend has some of the most haunted places in Washington. We started our trip by exploring them.

Many of the greatest adventures in Washington begin with a ferry ride, as did this one.

Port Townsend is on the northeast tip of the Olympic Peninsula. Taking the ferry is the quickest way to get there if you’re coming from Seattle. Zoe and I boarded from West Seattle to get there via Southworth. 

It was a foggy December morning, and the wind cut through our clothes when we stepped out of the car for a better view from the deck. The frigid air and overcast day added a bit of spookiness to the morning, which was perfect given our first few stops.

Port Townsend and the surrounding area is said to have its share of ghosts. It’s often up there on lists of “the most haunted places in Washington.” 

I’d describe myself as more paranormal-neutral than curious, but something about “ghost hunting” in winter feels right. It’s darker, quieter, foggier, and colder — a perfect setting for a bit of haunting. 

On the way up to Port Townsend, we made a quick detour to the small village of Port Gamble. It’s home to the Walker-Ames House, said to be the most haunted house in the state.

The Victorian house was built in 1889 and has been vacant since 1995 — but not according to locals or those who have ventured inside while on a Port Gamble Ghost Walk. 

Those convinced that it’s haunted have reported hearing footsteps and disembodied voices, seeing children in the windows, and feeling their hair or clothing pulled when inside. 

Paranormal investigators aren’t sure if anything nefarious ever happened here. It’s hard to believe that a house so cute and colorful could be haunted. That said, if something paranormal is going on, I would bet it’s in the basement.

Zoe and I wandered around the house, gazing into the cloudy windows and watching for movement. We didn’t see anything. But a peek into the eerie, dank-looking basement was enough to convince me this place might be a little livelier if we came back in the evening. 

We spent a bit more time in Port Gamble before heading to Port Townsend to check into our lodging for the night at Manresa Castle. 

This historic castle is on the outskirts of Port Townsend’s main commercial district. It was erected in 1892 as a private residence for its well-to-do original owners, Charles and Emma Eisenbeis. After Charles’s death and Emma’s remarriage, it was purchased by Jesuits before being sold again and transformed into a hotel.

The castle itself is a more budget-friendly accommodation than a luxury one. Its rooms are a bit dated and pretty minimal, but it’s still a destination for paranormal investigators.

Upon check-in, the woman at the front desk informed us of the castle’s two resident ghosts. One is a monk who hanged himself in the attic. The other is a woman who jumped from the third floor after hearing about the death of her lover.

Rooms 302 and 306 are said to have the bulk of paranormal activity, so we wandered upstairs to take a look around the halls.

People who have stayed in the castle have reported unsettling experiences: Hearing footsteps in empty hallways, doors opening and closing on their own, and feeling fingers running across their necks. Some say they’ve woken up only to see apparitions darting quickly across their room.

Similarly to the Walker-Ames House, we didn’t see or hear a thing, despite the hallways looking like the perfect place for a haunting. 

Though I will admit, the restaurant in the castle was having a karaoke night that we could hear almost to the third floor. I’m not sure you can see a ghost when an out-of-tune Shania Twain song is being belted. 

Regardless, it was fun to look around. And there was one more supposedly haunted place we were going to visit before we left Port Townsend. 

The next morning, we went to Fort Worden State Park.

We spent the morning exploring Fort Worden State Park’s defunct military bunkers, quiet beaches, and shady hiking trails.

We were greeted by crisp air and bright sunshine in the morning. We left the hotel feeling lucky we’d get to enjoy it while wandering around Fort Worden. 

It has tough competition. But if it’s not one of the best state parks in Washington, Fort Worden is certainly one of my favorites. 

Its forested trails wind uphill, and breaks in the trees provide views of the sea and mountains beyond. Herds of deer roam freely, munching twigs and leaves and blinking sleepily at humans strolling past. 

Paved trails lead visitors down to the shore where tufts of seagrass poke through soft sand. The beach is a popular spot for camping and people often come at low tide to hunt for smooth bits of sea glass. The Port Townsend Marine Science Center is nearby, too, full of exhibits with info about the critters of the Sound.

But most notably, the park is laden with history. Much of it is on display in the form of defunct military bunkers and batteries throughout.

Fort Worden was once part of Washington’s Triangle of Fire and built as a naval defense in the late 19th century. Reminders of what the park once was are everywhere. You’ll see it in the vast network of abandoned bunkers and gun batteries, and at the somber Memory’s Vault art installation.

You can dive further into the park’s military history at several on-site museums. The Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum is the most popular for those interested in the Fort’s defense efforts from the 1800s to WWII. The Commanding Officer’s Museum details what an officer’s day-to-day life and living quarters were like.

But I’d make an effort to check out the old bunkers and batteries, even if you’re not a military history buff. 

The bunkers are a stark contrast against the surrounding trees and greenery. Whenever I’m here, I feel like I’m exploring a ghost town. 

Wander up staircases to view it all from above. Notice the pebbly moss overtaking the old, cracking concrete; stairs that lead to doors bolted and rusted with time; and weeds growing out of what were once gun batteries. And then, there are the dark entrances to the insides of the bunkers. 

Even as a “paranormal-neutral” person, there’s something about those dark tunnels that makes me think there’s no way they’re not haunted. 

I will shamelessly admit I’m a wimp, so I’ve never gone all the way inside. But bring a flashlight if you’re a braver soul who wants to explore them — they’re dark, even in the summer.

Haunts aside, visiting Fort Worden in winter is a good idea because it’s less crowded and quieter, making it much more peaceful. Going on a sunny day like we did is a good idea if you’re able. But I adore Washington’s rainy season, too. Bundling up for a drizzly walk could also be lovely. 

Go in the morning, admire the views, watch for deer, and get a little lost on the trails. We thought it was the perfect way to wake up before exploring downtown Port Townsend’s many delights.

Port Townsend has a bustling downtown with one-of-a-kind shops, antique stores, and historic Victorian architecture. 

I love a town with a good commercial district and Port Townsend’s might be my favorite in the state. 

Honestly, the amount of creativity and the variety of the shops here is incredible but not surprising. Port Townsend is one of Washington’s Creative Districts, and the shops reflect this. 

Find art galleries galore. There are shops like Art Toolkit: Adventure Art Supply where artists can purchase high-quality, portable art kits. We stumbled into Type Townsend Studio, a store with vintage typewriters and other cool knick-knacks.

We bought locally-made art and gifts from Millstream Port Townsend, and stopped by Lively Olive Tasting Bar to sample the best of its olive oil and balsamic vinegar collection. We also wandered into World’s End, a shop that sells steampunk and pirate accessories (yes, really). 

Port Townsend also has plenty to satisfy those who love “treasure hunting.” There are multiple massive antique stores sprinkled throughout downtown. You can spend ages in them, finding old art, glassware, clothing, and other bits and bobs you don’t know you need until you find them.

I’m not usually a huge shopper, but that completely changes when I’m in Port Townsend. Zoe and I left each store shrugging at each other sheepishly over how much we’d spent, mumbling, “Hey, at least we’re supporting local!”

You can’t go wrong with most spots in the commercial district. But there were two in particular that we loved: Cafe Tenby and Soak on the Sound. 

Tenby is a charming little cafe that serves afternoon tea and the most scrumptious sandwiches and pastries. The vibe inside is warm and casual, and if you’re lucky enough to snag one of its homemade sourdough loaves, don’t pass it up.

Soak on the Sound is a day spa where you can rent a private soaking tub and sauna for around an hour. It’s the perfect way to wrap up a trip. We left feeling relaxed and a little sleepy but happy we’d done it.

***

Shopping is great, but one of the best things to do in Port Townsend is to simply wander. Admire all the gorgeous Victorian architecture. It will transport you back to the town’s early days when it was slated to be a major city and key seaport in Washington.  

That didn’t happen (the railroad went to Seattle instead), but maybe that’s a good thing. Had it seen that anticipated growth, Port Townsend may not have grown into the charming and creative city it is today.

Port Townsend is worth visiting in winter… and honestly, year-round. It just holds up. But if you’re looking to see it at its quietest, coziest, and least crowded, it deserves a place on your winter checklist.

I convinced Zoe it’s great, and we’re already plotting our next trip back. Leave me a comment and let me know if I’ve convinced you, too!

Prefer exploring somewhere in Washington that’s a bit more off-the-beaten-path?  Up next, read about my experience backpacking to Stehekin, the most remote town in Washington.